tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13864379397444930912024-03-13T20:20:31.406+00:00Through the eye of my cameraThe trials and tribulations of a wannabe wildlife photographer.
Lots more photographs can be found on my website:-
http://www.pbase.com/davidwilliamsphotographyDave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.comBlogger314125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-84971308092795201862023-04-15T19:44:00.004+01:002023-04-15T19:44:48.291+01:00No more blogs from me!<p> I'm afraid that as Google doesn't allow me to post my linked shots from Flickr I have decided to stop blogging as without the images the text loses value.</p>Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-50288644555557778932020-02-08T12:15:00.000+00:002020-02-08T12:17:58.185+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 8 Negombo and home.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Leaving Mirissa behind we were once again taking another step towards going home. With hindsight I would probably have stayed another day there had I thought it through or maybe not. Maybe I'd have tweaked the whole of our planned holiday.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the end we spent the last two days in Negombo doing very little other than lazing by the pool, oh and a couple of hours local tour to see the sights of Negombo and to stock up on a few spices to take home.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had considered a dolphin trip to Kalpityia but the reality was it wasn't that practical. A 3 hour plus drive to get there, it was a long day and the Dolphin might not show. It did happen once before!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No I'd keep that one up my sleeve for the future and would arrange to stay up that end of the island too, take in Wilpattu NP again, maybe visit the far north, the area where the civil war was fought not that long ago. Over on the east coast there was much unexplored island to see as well. Certainly enough to make the visit interesting.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Had this trip been a success? Well, not as much as I'd hoped. We'd chosen well with the accommodation, eaten well, had excellent weather so from that point it had been a great success. I guess the one aspect that I wasn't happy with was the fact we never actually settled anywhere for long enough, never unpacked our bags. Then there was the local wildlife viewing opportunities, again a bit of a disappointment. I'd done so much better in the past from that perspective.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Don't let me put you off Sri Lanka as a holiday destination though. It ticks so many boxes if you plan it correctly. It has a bit of everything, history, culture, game parks and sealife, water sports, hiking, interesting travel modes from the old Pullman style steam trains to Tuk Tuks. I am actually trying to point my grandson to take a chunk of his gap year back packing there, it's ideal and a better option than the Far East in my opinion.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We will go back I'm sure, all being well in the future. If you have never been I suggest you go sooner rather than later whilst tourist numbers are at their current low. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Cheers</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Dave</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-48527057294285380572020-02-08T11:02:00.000+00:002020-02-08T11:05:30.093+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 7 Mirissa bound.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">When planning this trip there was one place I knew I wanted to include, the lovely Spice House Guest House in Mirissa. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Guest House? Well the proprietors call it that but it's more like a boutique hotel really.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I first discovered it about 6 years ago and it's been a pleasure to watch them grow the business. Their eye for detail and personal service is superb, the hotel is kind of quirky. It's set on a hillside just out of town. The main building houses some guests whereas other stay in separate rooms within the grounds. The rooms are very tastefully built and furnished using reclaimed materials for things like doors and windows which make an interesting different experience.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Last time we stayed we stayed in the Lemongrass House and I made a special request to have this room again because it offered superb wildlife viewing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Leaving Cinnamon Wild behind I fully expected to have an improved garden experience. The taxi ride had been arranged by Phil, the owner of Spice House. R10,000. Our driver did the journey in 3 1/2 hours, We were greeted by Spice House staff who carried all our gear to our room...thankfully... while we had a refreshing welcome drink in the garden.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Since our last visit they have continued to expand and progress and have built a new unit housing three rooms and another swimming pool. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our room had changed significantly too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The bedroom was now a living area.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49505275887/in/dateposted/" title="The Spice House, Mirissa"><img alt="The Spice House, Mirissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49505275887_454470fa30_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The shower and toilet area remained as before.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481564948/in/dateposted/" title="Spice House,Mirissa"><img alt="Spice House,Mirissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481564948_ed588e0c46_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">but a new bedroom had been added.<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49504548173/in/dateposted/" title="The Spice House, Mirissa"><img alt="The Spice House, Mirissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49504548173_63748243ec_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">a full window leads on to the balcony</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49505061801/in/dateposted/" title="The Spice House, Mirissa"><img alt="The Spice House, Mirissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49505061801_719dff8c33_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">where outside you can relax on the huge lounger!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482046871/in/dateposted/" title="Spice House,Mirissa"><img alt="Spice House,Mirissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482046871_54c63a00fe_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I mean what's not to like!! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">For 99.9% of the visitors they would say fabulous. Me, a tad disappointed if I'm honest.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the 4 years since my last visit, the wrap round balcony that offered perfect viewing of the glade in the woods and stream of visiting birds had now been taken up by the bedroom extension.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not that it mattered. The glade had disappeared too. Things grow at an incredible rate when you have sun and rain! Sri Lanka is incredibly green as a result. The trees towered above the level of the balcony. Ah well, it wouldn't stop me visiting again. No way. I love this place and it's very handy to wander in to town for a beer on the beach or a browse of the shops.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh, and the food is exceptional. £60 per night B&B, R3000 (£13-£14) the price for two for the wonderful banquet of local food they provide in the evening.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, the answer would be to choose another room where the open aspect gives more avian opportunities and there are several to choose.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wandered up to a more open area and did get some decent shots.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was the only place I had a Drongo opportunity, strange because in many similar climate countries they are very common.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49428445273/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens"><img alt="White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49428445273_c4688ba316_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm always delighted to see Paradise Fly-catchers</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49428451013/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Indian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi"><img alt="Indian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49428451013_3dfa326148_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and the garden had both females and the long tailed males too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another bird that can be quite skittish is the Black-hooded Oriole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49428932586/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus"><img alt="Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49428932586_f89d477ed7_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That one posed brilliantly for a few seconds.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back on our balcony though, the Toque Macaque were far from lacking in confidence. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our balcony was invaded every morning but they behaved themselves unlike the last time when one hurled itself at me with teeth bared having chased me down the balcony. Fortunately I'd managed to step inside the room and shut the door in the nick of time.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That particular beast is no longer, and I didn't ask too many questions as to his fate either.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, the rest were far more amiable but still had a certain arrogance about them.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49438476807/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Toque Macaque"><img alt="Toque Macaque" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438476807_636ee8ed7e_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On one morning we had 15 on our balcony!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The other monkey species seen in the garden , and I was pleased to see they were still there, were the Purple-faced Langurs. They are fairly shy and don't allow close approach. from that point of view our room was perfect when they arrived in the evening to feed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471606236/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Purple-faced Langur Semnopithecus vetulus"><img alt="Purple-faced Langur Semnopithecus vetulus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471606236_b2972a2aae_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Hopefully they will continue to survive in the area which is currently being developed quite intensively. The Langurs are a threatened species for this very reason.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, our 4 nights in Mirissa were very enjoyable despite my disappointment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Mirissa is famous as a whale watching departure point and for it's surfing opportunities. It was fairly windy while we were there so there were some decent waves. We were not too concerned as surfing was never on the agenda and neither was whale watching really. Well, not unless something special was out there. Not that Blue Whales are not special but once seen is enough for me. They might be the worlds largest but they are not exactly spectacular as they only show a tiny proportion of their body and the only action is a flip of the tail as they dive in to the ocean depths.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">it was time to head back to Negombo and a return to where we'd started. We'd have 2 whole days to fill and I was considering a day trip to Kalpityia where the dolphin watching can be spectacular.</span><br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-3095548451313852402020-02-07T13:07:00.000+00:002020-02-08T09:51:17.158+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 6 Yala, the Good the Bad and the Ugly continued!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Our 5 nights were soon gone at Tissa and it was time to return to Cinnamon Wild for another three night stay which would include the whole day safari into Block 1.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Before we left Serene Park we feasted on a special breakfast, a token of appreciation from our host for our patronage. Most of his guests appeared to be groups of touring Chinese who descended late in the evening and left the early following morning never to be seen again. The half day safari brigade.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We on the other hand had eaten there every evening and drank copious quantities of beer to help boost his takings! I had also taken some snaps of his new pool for him to post on his website.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482265757/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Serene Park hotel, Tissa"><img alt="Serene Park hotel, Tissa" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482265757_fbc20540f2_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Fair do's, they had worked hard to build up this business, it seemed the hotel hadn't been there very long and had only got planning permission in the prime lake frontage location as his farm house had been there before. They still owned some of the surrounding rice fields.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I paid my bill but did pass comment that the price of the safaris was a bit expensive compared to the advertised rates in town. The main man helper who handled payment asked if there was a mistake to which I replied, no mistake, it's what was agreed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had always had a nagging doubt that I was paying over the odds but it was still a lot cheaper than Cinnamon had quoted. Time had passed since my last all day safaris four years previously but I could have sworn I only paid £60 or there abouts for two of us then.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">When I had enquired about a taxi to leave Cinnamon to go to Tissa, reception there had quoted R3750. A message to Serene and they sent one for R3000. It's not that far, and time wise it's only 30 minutes due to the state of the road to Cinnamon being very poor but compared to the trips from Negombo and Galle it still seemed expensive but you accept what it is. The 3000 had been added to my bill.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Now we were leaving, it would be interesting to see what the taxi charged on the return journey as I would be paying directly. As we bade our genuinely fond farewells I was told by our host the taxi back was on him. We thanked him for this kind gesture but at the same time my suspicious mind wondered if this was so we didn't find out how much the ride really cost. Maybe his way of making amends for the overpriced safaris too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, the moral of the story is "shop around" or "put up". We all have a choice!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Back in the same room in Cinnamon by request, it was very conveniently placed for the safari pick up point at the rear entrance. How many of these safaris are booked through the hotel I wouldn't know. Many people have signed up for tours of the whole island and these trips are part of the package.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, the alarm went off at 4.15, so it was a particularly early start! Claire was feeling unwell and asked if I minded her not coming. More to the point I asked if it was OK for me still to go. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She replied that it wasn't a problem, she'd be OK. She was suffering badly with a bad chest, sore throat and blocked sinuses which had been plaguing her for sometime and certainly not something she picked up in Sri Lanka.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, with her blessing off I went. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The benefit of being at Cinnamon is that it's a very short drive to Yala Block 1 entrance gate. We were there an hour before they opened and about jeep number 30 in the queue. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was still dark and I sat there alone wondering what I was doing there. Was this a dreadful mistake!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had already told my driver who'd brought along a teenager, his younger brother perhaps, as an extra pair of eyes that I was not interested in Leopard jams and he was to stay away from them if possible!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">He told me had he known he would have arranged to pick me up an hour later! The whole point of getting to the top of the queue was to be first at the Leopard sightings!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wondered if he had any knowledge of birds whatsoever but he soon demonstrated that he did.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once inside most jeeps shot off in the same direction. We didn't!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We headed down to the sea and were soon on to some good sightings.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Little Stint</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49422770396/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Little Stint Calidris minuta"><img alt="Little Stint Calidris minuta" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49422770396_e3ea485ba9_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and Little Ringed Plover in the early morning light looking good.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49432897981/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius"><img alt="Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49432897981_2bf8b7c2ac_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Next we headed off down a side road and although there were other jeeps about they were not interfering with my enjoyment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Both driver and the youngster had superb eyesight too, spotting things I would have missed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471742232/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Frog"><img alt="Frog" height="682" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471742232_89261b2735_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was asked what I specifically wanted to see and I listed Indian Pitta as my top priority.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Much to my delight they found me one in shaded undergrowth I would never have spotted myself.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49433788552/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura"><img alt="Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49433788552_424283b2a0_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"What next?" </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Chestnut-Headed Bee-eater" I replied.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They duly obliged!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49433791442/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti"><img alt="Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49433791442_fab18c5ee6_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">These two were good, very good. Better still they understood where I needed to be for a photo opportunity too. The youngster in the back instructing the driver where to put me in the perfect position for a shot.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As the morning wore on we started to see fewer and fewer jeeps and as we headed deeper in to the park most if not all of the traffic was heading out the other way.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Soon we found ourselves on empty trails! Magic.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49501094106/in/dateposted/" title="Block 1 Yala NP Sri Lanka"><img alt="Block 1 Yala NP Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49501094106_11e80eaa45_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Further along this particular track we suddenly spotted a Leopard walking right across the front of us at the upcoming crossroads. We had a clear view of the animal too but unfortunately by the time the vehicle stopped it was too late to get a shot, while it was moving, impossible to keep focus.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We took a right in the direction the Leopard had gone but he had left the road and was heading in to the bush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471069768/in/dateposted/" title="Just missed!"><img alt="Just missed!" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471069768_593bca7fff_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just too late but we'd had the sighting all to ourselves!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was lunchtime and the safari vehicles are obliged to gather at a given lunch spot leaving the park free of traffic for an hour or two. There were just 13 jeeps here, the sum total of those on all day safaris which when you consider there are usually around 200 plus jeeps in the park. it wasn't a high percentage.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We set off again around 2.00pm and the number of jeeps stayed minimal until around 3.30-4.00pm when the evening safari vehicles arrived. Once again, we steered clear of the jams. Leopards had been seen but we were not party to it as instructed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The afternoon continued in much the way of the morning session, we saw lots of species, most which I'd seen before but this time the sightings were much better.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49422951357/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Crested Hawk-eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus"><img alt="Crested Hawk-eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49422951357_e4d70ac1a6_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We didn't just see birds either, we had fabulous close up views of Elephant as well.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This particular one was interesting as it was feeding in a manner I haven't seen before. Food appeared to be plentiful with greenery everywhere but he was after something different. Kicking the ground he created clumps of turf which he then shook free of soil with his trunk before eating. The roots must have been tasty!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471800082/in/album-72157712888704497/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Indian Elephant Elephas maximus indicus"><img alt="Indian Elephant Elephas maximus indicus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471800082_71c64d8d50_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">All in all it was a very successful day and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, I just wished I'd found this guide from the off. Still, I have his details for future reference and he sent us some video footage of a Sloth Bear right alongside his vehicle the other day too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Had we had another spare day I might have booked another full day out but alas, it was too late, we were moving on, next stop Mirissa and the Spice House Guest House.This was somewhere I have stopped twice before, it's a special place and knew what to expect...or so I thought.</span><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-45478916111170692952020-02-07T09:57:00.001+00:002020-02-07T10:40:55.154+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 5 Yala, the Good the Bad and the Ugly.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Our safari to Yala block 5 started no later than it would have done to go to Block 1, if anything, slightly later in fact despite it being a much longer drive.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Why?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Because no one else was at the entrance gate when we arrived just before opening time at 6.00am.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was more like it, we had the whole of the park to ourselves it seemed!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not far from the entrance you arrive at the dam and the fast lake it has created behind it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481565373/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Block 5 Yala N.P."><img alt="Block 5 Yala N.P." height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481565373_c8e95041fc_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A huge area of land was taken , presumably from the national park, in its making. I think it's been there about 20 years now.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our driver stopped the vehicle below the dam and we searched the surrounding terrain for what might be there. Just the driver today, but we had every confidence he'd find whatever was about as he'd demonstrated his ability at Bundala. He told us he'd seen a Leopard at this very spot just a couple of days ago.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Leopard? Yes, it would be nice to see one but he knew the reason we were there was to avoid those Leopard jams that make wildlife viewing so unpleasant.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We started quite well with some good bird sightings even if they were mainly distant. Birds like Pygmy Woodpecker were a first for me</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49468840013/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides nanus"><img alt="Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides nanus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49468840013_c64062fa4b_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">and within 30 minutes I had added quite a few species previously unseen on this trip, such as Jerdon's Bush Lark.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49423254768/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Jerdon's Bush Lark Mirafra affinis"><img alt="Jerdon's Bush Lark Mirafra affinis" height="682" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49423254768_25af3b88e0_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Moving on we descended into woodland before emerging up above the bed of the river flowing from the dam.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482047706/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Block 5 Yala N.P."><img alt="Block 5 Yala N.P." height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482047706_aebfcf218a_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The scenery was quite spectacular and better still, as we drove alongside the river we came across this not so handsome bird!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49469868302/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus"><img alt="Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49469868302_9593a40b9b_b.jpg" width="683" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No doubt the Lesser Adjutant's mother thought he was beautiful though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Further downstream we stopped to have our picnic breakfast overlooking some rapids, small waterfalls and lots of birds fishing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482082396/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Block 5 Yala N.P."><img alt="Block 5 Yala N.P." height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482082396_34e25b5f60_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back in to the forested area we tried quite a few different tracks only to turn back where they had become judged impassable as vehicles had churned up the mud. We didn't seem to be getting much joy and the day was getting hotter and hotter. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I suggested to our driver that maybe we should find some shade and park up for a while but he didn't take note and just carried on driving alongside what appeared to be a man made channel of water. We stopped to look at a Mugger Crocodile resting on the bank.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471717232/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Marsh Mugger Crocodile"><img alt="Marsh Mugger Crocodile" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471717232_094a0a0224_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On we went and the early start and lack of action was starting to take its toll. I was sat with my eyes closed when the vehicle lurched to a stop.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Owl!" Cried the driver.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And there it was, no distance away whatsoever.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I rattled off some shots.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49392609807/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis"><img alt="Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49392609807_38ae634292_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Checked my camera to see that they were over exposed and quickly adjusted the settings.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">However, in my torpid state, I turned the dial in the wrong direction and added to the problem!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49483885302/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Brown Fish Owl"><img alt="Brown Fish Owl" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49483885302_8a518044a6_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Fortunately for me, despite the bright sun reflecting off the top of the Owl's head, the shots were recoverable if not perfect.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I would have been as sick as the proverbial parrot otherwise.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Adjutant and the Owl were without doubt the highlights of the day. Mammals are very hard to find in Block 5 it seems due to the nature of the terrain and the lack of traffic making them shy when they do come in to contact with humans.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We saw a few Spotted Deer here and there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49470994038/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Spotted Deer"><img alt="Spotted Deer" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49470994038_cd825a2ba4_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Some Water Buffalo</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49479591432/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Water Buffalo"><img alt="Water Buffalo" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49479591432_b1e56be580_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and the odd Ruddy Mongoose.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The one animal that wasn't shy was this Sambar Deer which appears at the lunch time picnic spot to get fed any spare fruit on offer.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49471728202/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Sambar Deer"><img alt="Sambar Deer" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49471728202_28a3a9ccd5_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">He's extremely confiding and very placid but has, as all wild animals seem to have, an incredible sense of smell. Having polished off a few bananas offered by the driver of another vehicle he headed directly to me as he could smell the watermelon juice on my hands.You have to be careful of those horns which could inflict a nasty injury quite easily even if no malice was intended.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Block 5 reminded me of Wilpattu. Scenically even prettier but similar in wildlife opportunity. We did see things that we didn't find elsewhere but the photo opportunities bar the best two sightings were mostly difficult because of proximity, light and vegetation.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What I did like was the lack of traffic, even if the arrival of another safari jeep had flushed the Owl.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">During the course of the day we saw maybe 10 individual jeeps, and most of them later in the afternoon.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was a reason for this it appeared. Come the hour we turned off the main route in to the park and headed off down a side road where to my amazement there were about 10 vehicles all parked up.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482063721/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Block 5 Yala N.P."><img alt="Block 5 Yala N.P." height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482063721_b792afc666_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was pretty obvious what was going on. You could hear the alarm call of a monkey that signalled the presence of Leopard.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was near silence bar the people in one jeep laughing and chattering. Idiots!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Suddenly one of the jeeps fired up his engine and the next minute all hell let loose. Our driver who had been so careful in his choice of routes and avoidance of getting stuck, was calm and collected in his driving on public roads, suddenly become a leading contender to win Whacky Races as he cut up his rivals and jockeyed into his preferred position.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a moment or two of madness before everyone stopped and turned off their engines again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We sat patiently for 15-20 minutes but there was no sign of the Leopard and the warning cries of the monkey stopped. One by one the assembled jeeps gave up and left although our man stayed to the bitter end. In fairness he gave it his all and we were the last jeep to leave the park at exactly 6.00pm closing time, 12 hours after entering.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Was it judged a good day? Not exactly. Wildlife watching involves a lot of luck. Finding the Owl was indeed outstanding luck as the Brown Fish Owl is largely a nocturnal hunter but the rewards for $165 and 12 hours could not be described as outstanding.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Would I go again? Probably not, in fact having made the southern end of the island my main target area on this trip I may well never go back now and if I do it will be to discover previously unseen parts of the island. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I gave our driver a R3000 tip and bade farewell. I wouldn't be taking any more trips, not through our hotel at that price anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The next couple of days were spent in the hotel in Tissa, much of it spent processing shots taken over the last couple of days but we did walk in to the town and I had the odd foray to the edge of the lake with my camera. Opportunities were not the best though so I came away with little to show for it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the back of my mind though I had a nagging doubt. I'd come all this way to Sri Lanka, would spend around £3500 in the process and was in danger of going home wondering"what if?"</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On one of our wanderings into "suburbia" we passed a simple house with a jeep parked outside. I decided to ask the question.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How much for an all day safari to Yala, pick up at the Cinnamon Wild hotel? This of course needed no further description of which part I meant. Everyone goes to Block 1!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"R9000 for the jeep plus R4500 per person entry tickets" was the reply.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">" I'm going to book it" I said to Claire and to my surprise after the 12 hours in Block 5 she said count me in.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">18,000 rupees is the equivalent of nearly £80 or $100. Half what I had paid previously.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was Friday and I booked for Monday. I didn't want to be in the park at the weekend, it would be far too busy. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I asked him for assurance he wouldn't let me down and not turn up and the deal was done. He was obviously as nervous about us not showing and took details of Claire's What's app number as we didn't have a Sri Lankan SIM card.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back at the hotel we discovered a message asking if we wanted to be provided with a packed lunch but we declined. Still, looked likely he's turn up at the agreed meeting time of 4.45am.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What the hell, I was prepared for the worst.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Bring it on! Traffic or not. </span><br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-70097504628188243342020-02-05T20:53:00.000+00:002020-02-06T18:56:52.922+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 4 Tissamaharama...and safari time!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Our next stop over was to be the longest of the trip. Five whole nights in one hotel! The Serene Park is set back from the main promenade that fronts Tissa Lake and is surrounded by rice fields.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482270097/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Serene Park hotel, Tissa"><img alt="Serene Park hotel, Tissa" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482270097_3a75fec0e3_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As with everywhere we stayed it was spotlessly clean and although it wasn't the cheapest at £42 per night for B&B it was probably the simplest room we had.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482084411/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="IMG_1332"><img alt="IMG_1332" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482084411_3fa87fb3b8_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No fridge, TV, or even much space to store clothes so as with everywhere else we just lived out of the suitcase.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We managed perfectly well although it isn't ideal and is one of the biggest drawbacks of touring holidays. The room had the two things we did need, a decent bathroom</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482048246/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Serene Park hotel, Tissa"><img alt="Serene Park hotel, Tissa" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482048246_95cac3ed3a_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and aircon because it was pretty hot in the room until the early hours of the morning.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The best thing about the hotel though was the friendly owner and his staff, well his main man who seemed to do everything from carrying our bags up to the second floor to taking food orders and serving drinks. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh and the food was excellent!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Who needs a buffet with maybe 100 things to choose. This simple curry and rice did me well!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482262127/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Serene Park hotel, Tissa"><img alt="Serene Park hotel, Tissa" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482262127_da64fa113a_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes all those dishes are mine, Claire opted for a simple chicken and chips. My curry came to R1500, around £6 and with large bottles of beer at R500 it was happy days.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Breakfast was superb too!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had 4 full days here and my original intention was to take 3 safari trips. One to Bundala for $130, two to Yala at $165. But after seeing how many jeeps were milling around everywhere and hearing tales of Leopard jams I had decided against Yala and asked if it was possible to go to Udawalawe NP, one I have never been to, instead. I was dissuaded from going on the grounds of distance from Tissa and instead it was suggested we try block 5 of Yala NP. Yala is divided in to 5 blocks, Block 1 is the most popular by far as it's closest to Tissa and has the highest density of visible game.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ok, I agreed we'd try it but first we'd go to Bundala NP, a firm favourite of mine.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Bundala is low lying, has a lot of wetland area and is a magnet for birds. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They are everywhere, particularly in winter when it holds migrating species as well as the resident ones.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Best of all those it's practically deserted as far as safari vehicles are concerned and only attracts avid birders! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482262022/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Bundala N.P."><img alt="Bundala N.P." height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482262022_2988640090_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I think we probably saw about 6 other safari jeeps during the course of our day and we were definitely the only ones to spend the whole day in the park. Our host hotel owner who had arranged the trips seemed surprised I wanted to spend a whole day there but I was insistent. I certainly wouldn't be bored. In fairness he arranged a driver who had an excellent knowledge of birds and we also picked up a park guide at the gate too. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Guides are definitely an advantage as it seems their eyesight is so much better than mine.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I would never have spotted that!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49493056713/in/dateposted/" title="Bundala NP Sri Lanka"><img alt="Bundala NP Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493056713_387c56a22c_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This turned out , as expected, to be an excellent day's birding. Some of the highlights were as follows</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Pheasant-tailed Jacana</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49401328223/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus Chirurgus"><img alt="Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus Chirurgus" height="682" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49401328223_938e7d74b2_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yellow-wattled Lapwing</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49427577758/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus"><img alt="Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49427577758_abc02fcc07_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and some stunning close ups of Blue-tailed Bee-eaters</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49423113298/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus"><img alt="Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49423113298_d04482df81_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Out on the salt flats there were hundreds of gulls and waders, my favourite being a pair of Small Pratincole</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49428859792/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Small Pratincole Glareola lactea"><img alt="Small Pratincole Glareola lactea" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49428859792_f9fa372ccb_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and best of all, a Black-necked Stork, a lifer for me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49396453488/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Black-necked Stork. Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus"><img alt="Black-necked Stork. Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49396453488_8f1b0747cb_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My biggest disappointment was that a superb area of reed bed no longer existed having been destroyed by elephant.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes, there are Elephant in Bundala, not many. maybe 25, but we managed to see 6 of them during the course of the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49493054153/in/dateposted/" title="Bundala NP Sri Lanka"><img alt="Bundala NP Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493054153_bb6b56597c_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, on a previous visit I managed to see Black Bittern, Yellow Bittern and Ruddy-breasted Crake all in the one small area, this time there was just a couple of small pools with no reed whatsoever there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I did manage a Yellow Bittern at another spot but the views were distant and the photo opportunities poor.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Despite the disappointment though, my trip was judged a big success. I would recommend anyone to spend the day there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nice spot overlooking the sea for lunch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482083556/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Bundala NP"><img alt="Bundala NP" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482083556_53a769b570_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not only birds but a few mammals too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ruddy Mongoose</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49493763727/in/dateposted/" title="Bundala NP Sri Lanka"><img alt="Bundala NP Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493763727_5e156fa30f_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and Toque Macaque</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49493764552/in/dateposted/" title="Bundala NP Sri Lanka"><img alt="Bundala NP Sri Lanka" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49493764552_2eefe36414_b.jpg" width="682" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With no traffic there was no need to get there early either, just two vehicles entered the park at opening time and I think we were the only two of the morning too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To be honest a whole day trip works out at far better value for money too so for me it's a no brainer.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Tomorrow we would be exploring a new place all together, Block 5 of Yala.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wondered how it would compare.</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-43384524535885366482020-02-05T09:10:00.001+00:002020-02-05T18:51:40.425+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 3 Cinnamon Wild Yala.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">The journey from Galle to Yala took a bit longer than expected, 4 1/4 hours to be precise. The taxi driver was making noises that it was further than he's realised when he'd quoted R9000 for the journey although he did acknowledge he'd been there once before. I gave him R10500 and he went away happy. I'd been looking forward to this hotel, the Cinnamon Wild Yala 4* as one of the , if not the highlight, of our stay in Sri Lanka. The hype surrounding it makes it sound as if you are going to see lots of wildlife wandering around locally in the grounds of the hotel that back on to the Yala National park itself. Happy days I thought! It was somewhere I wanted to try but when I'd looked previously it was always beyond my budget but I'd been browsing Booking.com on Black Friday and the deal they were offering looked excellent. Just £75 per night for D,B&B ! Just one catch though, the dates were limited. No problem, a cunning plan was hatched. We booked in for two nights, we'd then go somewhere less expensive for 5 nights and then return for a further 3 nights the following weekend at the special rate! Considering if you go on Cinnamon's website right now and book their special offer on D,B&B with 40% discount its $330 per night this coming weekend . Booking.com has it for £271. So yes, we'd got it at a bargain price. Was it worth it? Yes and no!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There's no doubt the rooms were well appointed, we had a 'Jungle chalet".</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482276732/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Cinnamon Wild Yala"><img alt="Cinnamon Wild Yala" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482276732_4f66017b1c_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Surrounded by bushes there was no view but hopefully they might attract some birds to photograph.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Inside the room, it was very comfortable indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482260402/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Cinnamon Wild Yala"><img alt="Cinnamon Wild Yala" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482260402_582d67d9b5_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The best thing was there was a TV showing Premier League matches so I could watch my team playing live. Mind you it was hard keeping awake when the kick off was 1.30am!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, you couldn't fault the room and the huge choice included with the buffet dinner was pretty good too, especially at the price we'd paid but that's were they can catch the unsuspecting. The hotel is in the middle of nowhere so there are no alternatives. We chatted to a couple of ladies who'd paid a mere £50 for their room but then had to fork out £32 for breakfast and I'm not sure what they did for dinner but the BBQ would cost them $60 so their deal wasn't so clever after all. Drinks in the rooftop bar were not extortionate but at R850 for a bottle of beer they were twice the price of everywhere else we went. Happy hour was more of a smile than a laugh as the price reduction was only 15% and only applied to cocktails!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh, and as for safaris they were outrageously priced. They weren't going to get me though. Oh no, I had had a cunning plan, well at least I thought I had. I was taking my safaris from the next place we were staying in between Cinnamon stays. More of that later but suffice to say, Cinnamon quoted me $120 more than the price I'd agreed to pay. Even a taxi fare to get us out of there had an additional 25% premium. Fortunately we had come prepared for all that and my objective was to just spend my time at Cinnamon exploring the grounds.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That however, was the big disappointment. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The hotel hypes up the fact that you are in a wildlife environment and after dark they insist you are accompanied back along the well lit paths to your chalet by a member of staff. Yes, a sizeable lake is in front of the hotel, yes it has large crocodiles in it. Yes, there are Water Buffalo wallowing in the lake and yes, one might wander in to the grounds on occasion. Yes, there are "wild" boars wandering around too but I witnessed a member of calling them to come and get some scraps of food he was dealing with at the recycling plant! They are totally harmless, the Buffalos are disinterested and the monkeys leave you alone too. The odd elephant intruder might pose more of a threat but as the hotel grounds have security posted all over I'm sure they'd be aware if one entered. If they are not they wouldn't be much point would they!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So my plan of taking in the wildlife was dashed by the limitations of the grounds which was largely made up of narrow pathways lined with bushes. Access to the lake was extremely limited and the minute you set foot outside the property you were instructed to return by security. I was told that the hotel could provide a guide for my safety if I wanted to go for a walk. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Of course they would if I paid .</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, for the money we paid it was a good deal. They get excellent reviews on the likes of Trip Advisor </span><span style="font-size: large;">but their clientele by and large have different objectives to mine. Most stop one or maybe 2 nights, take a morning and/or afternoon safari that lasts just a few hours and then leave. I rather suspect that their safari experience is only judged successful if they see a Leopard although maybe an Elephant or Bear would suffice. They tend not to be interested in anything else and a 3 or 4 hour trip is the limit of their attention span.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The safari business is big in Yala and the nearby town of Tissamaharama. There are jeeps parked up everywhere. They seemed to have grown in number even more than on my last visit 4 years ago.They were causing chaos back then and from what I was hearing in the hotel, even more so now. The problem is that most folk just want to see a Leopard so consequently that's exactly what all the jeeps try to do, satisfy their clients hoping for a bigger tip. The result is a rush to get to the latest sighting with speeding vehicles desperate to get ahead in the queue to view. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I decided to cancel my two booked trips to Yala and instructed the owner of the next hotel that was my intention. I would stick with the one to Bundala and if that was a success I'd go there again. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So, what did I see at Cinnamon?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The only bird species I saw there and nowhere else was the Indian White-eye but the view was brief and the photo opportunity difficult.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49479236601/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Indian White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus"><img alt="Indian White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49479236601_ee139144ed_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The one benefit of being on foot as opposed to being in a safari vehicle is the point of view.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Being on a level plain with the subject always makes for a better shot and this Spot-billed Pelican is a good example.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49407648313/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis"><img alt="Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49407648313_e05043cac7_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As is this Monitor Lizard that was so close I couldn't fit the whole beast in the shot!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49447689608/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Land Monitor Lizard"><img alt="Land Monitor Lizard" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49447689608_64ef778050_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sometimes the problem isn't fitting the whole subject in the frame, it's having it all in focus. Using a telephoto lens has the advantage of getting closer to your subject without frightening it away but the shallow depth of field these lenses have present their own problems.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49448016826/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Garden Lizard"><img alt="Garden Lizard" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49448016826_ca6992139b_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">All in all, I was perfectly happy at Cinnamon Wild. I can see why most guests think it's great but personally I probably wouldn't have returned for a second visit if I hadn't already paid. I much prefer somewhere where I can wander freely even if the standard of accommodation isn't quite as high. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As for the buffet meals, and the huge choice that invites gluttony ( well you have to try everything don't you?!), maybe I'm better off with a freshly made meal made especially for me!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, I'd sent a message asking our next hotel to send a taxi over to pick us up. The hotel owner came too as he wanted to check out the pool signage so he could get some ideas for the pool he'd just had built.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">First stay over, maybe the next one would now be the highlight.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Fingers crossed!</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-14162249570530346702020-02-03T17:58:00.000+00:002020-02-04T10:16:02.032+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 2 Negombo to Galle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Refreshed and nearly acclimatised we were ready for the next stage of our journey which was to take us down to the southern tip of the island and the wildlife area of Yala NP. To get there it's possible in a day, especially as they have just opened a new dual carriageway which takes you a good deal of the way. We however were in no rush and decided to make an overnight stop in Galle, one of the most popular tourist spots on the island. The taxi ride was only 2.5 hours and cost 11000 rupees including a 10% tip and the toll fees ( 230 rupees =£1, 180=$1 at the time of our visit).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd booked a room at Sam Villa which is inside the old fort, the popular tourist area.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again, I'd picked well!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481568493/in/dateposted/" title="Sam Villas, Galle"><img alt="Sam Villas, Galle" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481568493_024b004190_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just £26 for B&B in a wonderful old building in a quiet spot just off the main drag.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481573588/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Sam Villas, Galle"><img alt="Sam Villas, Galle" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481573588_889ee4215f_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had a lovely spacious room with a modern bathroom.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482054851/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Sam Villas, Galle"><img alt="Sam Villas, Galle" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482054851_1570e6714d_b.jpg" width="683" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm not sure if there was a fan or aircon but these old buildings were built to withstand the heat.( I have since been told by Claire we did have zircon!)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a short stroll down to the main restaurant/shopping streets which were busy with tourists.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Quiet up our end though!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481571823/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Galle"><img alt="Galle" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481571823_952d956c32_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From the fort walls you can overlook the international cricket ground where England play Sri Lanka in the next month or so. </span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482052971/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Cricket ground, Galle"><img alt="Cricket ground, Galle" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482052971_424e9410ef_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Apparently you can't get accommodation for love nor money now and the fort walls are crowded with folk hoping for a free view!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In January though the fort walls were crowded for another reason. The sunset!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482263447/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Galle sunset"><img alt="Galle sunset" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482263447_3bc6f7a921_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were there on a public holiday so I'm not sure if it's always that crowded, however it did mean one thing. Alcohol sales are forbidden. Fortunately we'd already purchased a bottle of gin the day before!! Our sundowners were guaranteed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One thing we did notice though was that the prices in restaurants were much higher here than elsewhere. On that evening we decided on a straight forward simple burger and chips and , together with a couple of lime sodas the bill was around £18... not exactly going to break the bank but probably on a par with UK prices.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Talking of breaking the bank, if you are planning a heist this is the ideal place!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482302517/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Galle"><img alt="Galle" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482302517_39f0011b68_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can get away with the whole outfit!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were pleased we'd spent an afternoon in Galle but to be honest, it's enough.Well, for us anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I would highly recommend Sam Villa but last time I looked they were not on Booking.com anymore but they do have a website.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Without a doubt the breakfast we had there was excellent.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Fruit to start</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49481604863/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Sam Villas, Galle"><img alt="Sam Villas, Galle" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49481604863_cc2989c30d_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Then Claire has "English" and I had local.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482301587/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Sam Villas, Galle"><img alt="Sam Villas, Galle" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482301587_908c01e48d_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Washed down with plenty of freshly brewed coffee I wouldn't be needing any lunch that day and when we saw what was inshore for dinner at the next place we were heading I was pleased I'd not eaten all day!!</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-88435897440890492902020-02-03T13:54:00.000+00:002020-02-04T10:16:22.128+00:00Sri Lanka January 2020. Part 1. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">This trip was planned at fairly short notice, just around 6 weeks in fact. We should have travelled to Goa in November but our package tour company, Thomas Cook, went down the tubes and our holiday went with it. We weren't bothered, in fact we were quite happy about it as we were due to leave just three weeks after returning from the four week trip we'd had in South Africa. Fortunately, the package was covered by ATOL so we got our money back very promptly and all we had to decide was were to go instead.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We did want to go to Goa but the prices seemed to have shot up, both for packages with the one company still operating, and for flights, with Qatar now asking almost £1k for an economy return. Out of the question when you can go to Sri Lanka for less than £600. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So, that was it then. Sri Lanka it would be. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This however would be a different trip to the previous ones we had made to the island. Well, the previous two at any rate. This was to be our fourth visit and this time the emphasis was on R&R rather than touring and sightseeing. Claire was due a relaxing holiday as the previous one had been non stop driving and wildlife watching for a month. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, the objective would be a good standard of accommodation, hopefully some wildlife for me to wander off to watch whilst Claire relaxed with a good book. ( That's why I love The Gambia so much, you can just wander off when you are bored and find plenty of avian subjects to photograph).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We decided the dates we could fit in a visit, booked the flights then went to Booking.com to book hotels.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How did it work out? Well, as you'll find out, the accommodation and food was where we wanted it. Very good indeed. However, my planning could have been tweaked for a better experience with less "living out of a suitcase" and certainly my wildlife expectations didn't meet with the plan.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So, on with the trip! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Leaving home on the 7th of January, it wasn't that long after the Christmas holiday period at home. Qatar Airways chosen again as we could fly from Manchester rather than travel to London for other alternatives. We don't mind the break in the flight at Doha, an opportunity to stretch the legs although it can be an extremely long walk, especially with 12 kilos of camera gear on your back. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482140253/in/dateposted/" title="Doha airport."><img alt="Doha airport." height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482140253_7a98f2dfcc_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The first place I'd booked to stay was called Optimum Residencies in Negombo, a short distance from the airport. What attracted me wasn't just the incredibly low price of £27 per night but that it included an airport pick up too. I'd booked 2 nights knowing it takes time to acclimatise and get over the time difference of 5 1/2 hours, especially after a 17 hour journey to get there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were pleasantly surprised. The owner of the hotel/guest house was waiting for us at arrivals and we were soon at the hotel and flat out on the bed fast asleep at around 10am!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482292022/in/dateposted/" title="Optimum Residencies Negombo"><img alt="Optimum Residencies Negombo" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482292022_7cc489dbfb_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The room was simply but perfectly adequate. Spotlessly clean, we had a TV, a fridge with water and beer chilling, the bathroom had a "wet room" shower arrangement, oh and we had aircon too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Stepping out of our room through the French window we were next to a small swimming pool.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482046431/in/photostream/" title="Optimum Residencies Negombo"><img alt="Optimum Residencies Negombo" height="768" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482046431_c63e740498_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They served freshly made meals and although the choice was limited the food was outstanding value and delicious. The breakfast was quite a spread of Sri Lankan food and again, more than enough to set you up for the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">OK, not everyone would order fried garlic as a starter, and I have to say I was taken aback when it was served but I ate the lot! As for the consequences, don't ask!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49482303057/in/photostream/" title="Fried garlic"><img alt="Fried garlic" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49482303057_b4f29f5bcf_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was indeed a gem of a find being so close to the airport and compensated for the fact that the place we have used before didn't respond to my email enquiries. Apparently they only opened the business 2 years ago, starting with 2 bedrooms. They have now increased to 11 with plans for further expansion. While we were there they were adding a new swimming pool and a new kitchen and covered dining area. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If you are looking for somewhere I can thoroughly recommend this place. Lovely hard working people who are giving it their all to succeed. They go beyond the call of duty to help you make your trip a success, happy to arrange onward transport etc, etc.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh, I didn't mention did I, Sri Lanka was hit by terrorist bombings in early 2019. In fact the worst atrocity, a local church, was just 500m away. 153 unfortunate people died in the one attack by a single suicide bomber and amongst them, some relatives of our hosts. This didn't halt their determination and although the tourist trade took a hit, their business continued to grow.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On the second day of our trip I decided to hire a Tuk Tuk and take a ride up to Waikaal to see what had happened at our previous favourite stopping place. I also knew I could do a spot of birding there too! Leaving Claire behind off I went.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What would I find at the guest house. Why no replies to my email enquiries? I suspected perhaps the owner had sold up but no, they hadn't. What I did find though was a bit of a shock.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/23534801510/in/album-72157662369091172/" title="Sri Lanka"><img alt="Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/5788/23534801510_bce778a40a_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The once beautifully manicured gardens and pristine swimming pool were now totally overgrown.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/23534801080/in/album-72157662369091172/" title="Sri Lanka"><img alt="Sri Lanka" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/5730/23534801080_bc6379072f_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The swimming pool was now full of green water and had been planted as a wildlife pond it seemed!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And the owner was still there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She'd only just that week taken over the business from her parents on our last visit. She claimed it wasn't making any money and the terrorist attacks finished it off. When I told her I had attempted to email her she said she'd changed all the email addresses as she got fed up dealing with enquiries which was odd considering she'd told me the business wasn't there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, I think she just couldn't be bothered and had turned this once magnificent property in to something resembling a hippie squat. Her parents must be dismayed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ah well. I bade farewell and headed down to the beach via the Ranwelli hotel, the first place we stayed in on our original package tour holiday in 2013. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That wasn't looking well occupied either with just a handful of guests in evidence in a once thriving business. Maybe the bombings had contributed but complacency and greed wouldn't have helped them either, they had been heading that way already. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ah well, the beach was much the same with many of the usual suspects so I spent and hour or so with the camera before heading back to Negombo.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49448387628/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus"><img alt="Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus" height="683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49448387628_47f45347e4_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49448523903/in/album-72157712888704497/" title="Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis"><img alt="Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis" height="682" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49448523903_2c5cd668e8_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-24836422530276265792019-11-16T15:19:00.002+00:002019-11-16T15:41:28.739+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019. Postscript<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">As with all reports and reviews you have to be careful in what you read as the views are totally subjective. What one person likes, another could hate and vice versa.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The one thing I would recommend is to read as much as possible, ask questions before coming to a final decision about what suits you.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My trips are tailored to my budget which might be different to yours.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had booked a journey and accommodation based on what we'd read. Until we got there we didn't know what we'd really get but overall I'd done a reasonable job. The only camp we'd been disappointed in was Shingwedzi and that wasn't that bad really.Others think it's marvellous. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The weather is something you have to hope for, with climate change all over the world the norm can no longer be relied on. The time of year we chose we'd hoped it would be dry and sunny and for the most part it was. Too dry and too sunny!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'd love to see the park after the rain, when rivers are flowing and everything is green but that said, game viewing would be more difficult so finding the right balance is down to luck as I'm sure in the space of a week or so the change could be dramatic between extremes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Without a doubt, in my opinion the Bushveld Camps are the ones of choice for me. Small, intimate the ones we stayed in had better, more spacious accommodation than the main camps we experienced. Not everyone wants to self cater though so that needs consideration and planning. If budget is a consideration then there are cheaper options at the main camps. Using the camp sites are an option but unless you are a native South African, or at least have access to camping equipment much of the cost saving in a camp site might be lost in hire of equipment. Then in addition you have to weigh up what it's like using the camp site. I must admit I came away thinking it's not for me. The sites are unregulated, a neighbouring unit can be feet away from yours. One or two units might form a barrier to make the corner of the site their own private area. Then you have the facts that if you have a roof top tent every morning you have to put everything away before heading out on a drive and by the time you return you can find someone has moved on to your pitch no matter what you left behind ti indicate it was taken. No, not for me. I don't need the hassle.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From a catering point the camp shops have enough choice to keep you in provisions for a few days but for longer stays you need to have access to shops near the gate which to my knowledge are limited in number. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As a foreigner to South Africa we were lucky to benefit from a favourable exchange rate. I had pre loaded my Revolut credit card before we left not knowing how much money I'd need and we returned home with a considerable amount of credit too. I guess we didn't have as many restaurant meals as I envisaged but that was our preferred choice, not a financial decision.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With hindsight perhaps I should have driven less, taken more time out during the hottest parts of the day but as a first time visitor I was keen to explore as much as possible and some of our best sightings came at the hottest part of the day too so you never can tell. You have to be prepared to work hard for your sightings. Sitting at home with my guide books and maps I had planned a journey that I estimated would be 5000kms from landing in Johannesberg , through the park from south to north and back to the airport for our journey home. Miraculously I clocked up 4993kms! How's that for guess work. What I totally over estimated was the cost of fuel. What I hadn't considered was the speed at which you drive makes fuel economy better than expected, that plus working on the basis of the car I rented achieving 30mpg where in actual fact it must have been a lot higher. Unfortunately for me the saving in fuel was partly lost in repair damage to the car but that was my fault of course.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Overall the holiday couldn't be considered inexpensive, there again we were away for a month, and by safari standards it was actually very cheap!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You could easily spend what we did in a month on a couple of days in a private lodge in one of the concessions. Each to their own, but I thought the level of comfort we had more than adequate. If I want luxury you can't beat being home no matter where you live and I really don't need three meals a day and stops to serve snacks mid morning and afternoon. I don't want to sit in a vehicle with several other people particularly either.. The odds are that their objectives will not match mine. Do I want my sightings put on a plate? Interesting point. A guide will know the places to go and your chances of seeing things will indeed increase, particularly as they are usually in communication and sharing with other guides. I remember my first sighting of a wild Rhino when we visited Namibia. Our day out was pretty expensive by my standards, perhaps £250 for the two of us. The trackers who were on foot found the Rhino and called in the vehicle we were in. I was in awe of seeing my first wild Rhino out in the bush but the pleasure was nothing compared to ones I have found for myself since. It's a decision only you can decide as to what your preferred choice is, self drive or guided ?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can of course settle for a mix of both in Kruger. All the camps offer guided trips but in the end we didn't bother. There was nothing we needed a guide to find as , with patience we'd found everything we'd wanted to see.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The one thing I would say though is that life in the camp parks is low key. No need to have any smart clothes for dinner, particularly if you are self catering. </span><span style="font-size: large;">The main camps provide laundry facilities too so that gives an option to travel lighter. I wore the same pair of shoes for the whole month, two other pairs were surplus to requirements. There again so was much of the clothing I'd taken, particularly wet weather clothing!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Between Claire and myself we'd had 74 kilos of hand and hold baggage for our flights with Qatar, I'd insisted Claire took a sun lounger in case that's what she fancied doing when she got fed up of driving around the place. What I hadn't considered was it was actually too hot to lie in the sun! I took my Gitzo tripod and Wimberley head and used it just once to capture the photographs of the Lesser Bushbaby. Between those two items we could probably saved the best part of 20 kilos! Mind you I was really pleased with the Bush Baby shots!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To anyone taking a similar trip to ours and besides the obvious the things I would consider essential to take or purchase outside the park would be an electric socket bank, a pan scourer, a floor cloth for cleaning the inside of the car when the dust gets so thick something needs to be done, eye drops for dust relief, scissors, can/bottle opener, a rechargeable torch preferably with a decent range of illumination to spot creatures at distance, a good supply of cool bags. UK supermarkets like Aldi sell large fold down ones which together with frozen bottles of water will suffice to transport your perishable food for sufficient time to get you from camp to camp. Last but not least, some luggage straps, you'll need four to protect both fridge and freezer compartments where you need to!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From a purely photographic point of view I took far more gear than I needed to. I could easily have shed 10 kilos in weight in addition to leaving the tripod at home. I didn't use my microphone or flash unit. My 24-105 lens was used once, the 70-200 only a couple of times. Having two camera bodies that take different sized batteries is a pain as you need two charging units but I do love both of the bodies so I'm prepared for that. Taking a notebook and external hard drive was very worth while, you can make sure you are doing the right things as you progress through the trip and if need be, try again if the opportunity presents itself. My infra red remote control is big and bulky, I used it once, again for the Bushbaby shots but with hindsight I could have used a hand held one without putting the subject off. I took a 2x teleconverter and that wasn't used either. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One thing I wish I'd taken but didn't was </span><span style="font-size: large;">trail</span><span style="font-size: large;"> camera. There was so much wildlife within the camp it would have been interesting to see what passed by our chalet, especially at night! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had purchased a hardback book before we went, Kruger Self-Drive by van den berg. Nice book to look at but it weighs about a kilo and the recommendations on routes and their ratings didn't always match my appraisal. The map books on sale in every camp are considerably lighter and inexpensive and give as much detail as you need. I took my Saisol Bird guidebook and one for mammals too. I could have managed without them but I was pleased I had them. Both my electronic Photographers guide book and the Robert's Bird app were largely unused.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I am lucky in as much as I am used to driving on the left hand side of the road and my own car has a manual gearbox. I have though driven on the right and had automatic cars when I have been on trips abroad. I would consider South Africa, and particularly the park in general, easy to adapt to no matter what you are used to.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And that's about all I can think of really. If anything remains unsaid and you think I might know feel free to ask.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Was a month too long?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In my opinion no!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire on the other hand doesn't want to entertain that length of stay again, photography isn't her passion after all. She has agreed to a return visit for up to two weeks though!We both loved the overall experience of seeing nature at first hand and relaxing evenings of sundowners and cooking on the braii </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have already booked another week in the one Bushveld camp I couldn't get in to, Biyamiti. If we stay anywhere else in the park is as yet undecided but it depends on what alternatives we can find that appeal to us both.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Is the south better than the north of the park?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have to say we had more "quality" sightings on a daily basis in the south and didn't drive very far between sightings as a whole. The south wasn't as busy as I'd expected but again that could be the time of year we had chosen to visit. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The north on the other hand had given us more big cat sightings than the south, given us sightings of huge Buffalo and Elephant herds but the birding everywhere hadn't come up to scratch compared to my expectations. On the whole there was less traffic on the roads too and the sightings jam of the south certainly didn't happen once.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I guess I really should have chosen to go at another time of year but as it worked well for us this time, that's when I'm going back.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The same time in 2020.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Bring it on!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">cheers</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Dave</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-80972893301232512812019-11-16T12:07:00.000+00:002019-11-16T12:09:09.095+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 An epic finish!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">So, this was it. The last full day, a last big effort to see and take in as much as possible. Claire was fully supportive of getting out of the Skukuza gate as soon as possible and we must have been amongst the first to leave. We headed off down the tar H-11 before taking a left down the gravel S65.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The early morning light was lovely.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070150142/in/dateposted/" title="Elephant"><img alt="Elephant" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070150142_554f82b151_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">both Elephant, which are not that plentiful in the south, and Giraffe were seen along here.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070151482/in/dateposted/" title="Giraffe"><img alt="Giraffe" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070151482_37066da39f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">but there was no sign of any of the cats...or dogs we were after. Arriving at the H1-1 tar road we were greeted to the scene of total destruction by fire. This went on for some distance, we went down to Transport Dam and it was the same there. There would be no herbivores around here, there was nothing to eat. We decided we'd not go any further towards Pretoriuskop but instead head towards the S114 , the road to Biyamiti Weir. We hadn't gone far when we spotted a pair of Spotted Hyena to the side of the road.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069945536/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069945536_e7b85e09fd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It looked as if there might be a den here but there was no sign of youngsters.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070155777/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070155777_8424376f4d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We flagged down a car coming in the opposite direction to tell them of our find and that they would need to move over to the wrong side of the road to see them. They in turn told us of another den at the junction of the two tar roads.H1-1 and H3.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sure enough, one adult and one cub were out in view.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069428173/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069428173_d6b9d3dae3_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The youngster appeared to have a lot more energy than the adult who was ignoring the request to play.The your one decided to amuse itself chewing on a stick!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069443768/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069443768_fc54b137a6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Suddenly there was an odd call and the young one bounded off and disappeared in to the den , a drain under the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We decided to take a slight diversion to the Matekenyane view point, a large rocky out crop that gives views of the surrounding plains.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A few snaps taken we headed back down towards the road but found a pack of Dwarf Mongoose out hunting so stopped for a few photos.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070172592/in/dateposted/" title="Dwarf Mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf Mongoose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070172592_8b9ede128b_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Next up was the S112 gravel road , then the S114. Both would give us very little rewards but at least I added a new bird to my trip list. The rather attractive Violet-cheeked Waxbill.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070152232/in/dateposted/" title="Violet-cheeked Waxbil. lUraeginthus granatinus"><img alt="Violet-cheeked Waxbil. lUraeginthus granatinus" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070152232_e6eafa26d8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Instead of continuing to Biyamiti we decided to make a breakfast stop at Afsaal. It was still early but the place was still busy, although nowhere near as busy as our visit almost a month ago. That of course was a national holiday. I wanted to try their roosterkoek again, see if it was good as first impressions had made.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49072927021/in/dateposted/" title="Roosterkoek!"><img alt="Roosterkoek!" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49072927021_afdd664c43_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The sweet chilli sauce is my addition and I have to admit, not the best on a breakfast roll, however, when it came down to the final judgement it wasn't as good as the Tshokwane offering!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/48989537953/in/dateposted/" title="Yum!"><img alt="Yum!" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48989537953_5f744e1917_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If you happen to be passing they are both worth a visit though!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Off we went again, this time heading to Biyamiti via the H2-2. Although an H road it's actually a gravel one. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I suddenly spotted some Lions just off the road.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069466838/in/dateposted/" title="Lion cub"><img alt="Lion cub" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069466838_2f56424bf6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They were fairly well hidden so getting a photo wasn't easy.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069467413/in/photostream/" title="Lion cub"><img alt="Lion cub" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069467413_d23089a244_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were three cubs but no sign of any adults.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another car arrived on the scene and stopped to see what we were photographing, however, they left the engine running and this obviously seemed to disturb the cubs who decided to move away</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069955986/in/photostream/" title="Lion cub"><img alt="Lion cub" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069955986_d583df22b2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Annoying to have my sighting ruined but there you go. Not a lot you can do about it. I do wonder why some people leave their engines running continually, yes the aircon might be nice but they have the windows open too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, that sighting was over. It was only when I looked at the photos when I got home I realised one of the cubs has had its tail bitten off by the looks of things. I wonder who was responsible and how that happened.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069435918/in/dateposted/" title="Lion cub"><img alt="Lion cub" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069435918_8753a81cff_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Arriving at the weir we crossed over then returned to put me on the right side for photography.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were greeted by the sight of a Monitor Lizard coming over the wall.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069966546/in/dateposted/" title="Monitor Lizard"><img alt="Monitor Lizard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069966546_8b249b3317_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There wasn't much happening around the weir but it was noticeable the water had been running over the top and what had been a bone dry road on our last visit was now wet and muddy.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070191577/in/photostream/" title="White-faced Whistling Duck"><img alt="White-faced Whistling Duck" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070191577_e93bba5dcd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The resident Hippo was there along with a couple of White-faced Whistling Ducks.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069461108/in/dateposted/" title="White-faced Whistling Duck"><img alt="White-faced Whistling Duck" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069461108_7058fc78b4_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again, the point of view opportunities was excellent and I was closer to this species than I have ever managed in the past. There was nothing else about so I suggested to Claire a major change of plan. My intention to stay at least an hour now forgotten we'd head for the S25 and go the whole length to H4-2 then north to Lower Sabie.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was desperate to see some Wild Dogs if truth be known! I could return to the weir the following day on our way out of the park when heading back to Johannesberg.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Onwards we went. The south west of the park is the best place to see Rhino, it's not a secret but nevertheless sightings are meant to be kept vague. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We found some in a pool near the side of the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069465498/in/dateposted/" title="Rhinocerous"><img alt="Rhinocerous" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069465498_19fa676356_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They were so close I had to change lenses and for the first time in a month attach the 24-105mm on the camera!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069464418/in/photostream/" title="Rhinocerous"><img alt="Rhinocerous" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069464418_b65ca3bd76_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a stunning experience to be within a few feet of these two magnificent animals chilling in a small pool!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A vehicle coming the opposite way stopped to tell me about a wild dog sighting they'd had. The pack was asleep under some bush around 15 kilometres away. There was every chance they would be there for some time. We followed the distance to the metre but no sign of the dogs. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another kilometre.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And another.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was beginning to think our luck was out when we came across two parked cars.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They were there!!!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070179437/in/dateposted/" title="Wild Dog"><img alt="Wild Dog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070179437_cb81a69c4f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The views were again obscured by twigs, branches bits of grass but now and again one would sit up.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069973051/in/dateposted/" title="Wild Dog"><img alt="Wild Dog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069973051_46d475c262_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">or even move position altogether.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069973811/in/dateposted/" title="Wild Dog"><img alt="Wild Dog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069973811_11c049311e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were at least a dozen dogs scattered over the various shaded areas but pretty close to the road.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069963966/in/dateposted/" title="Wild Dog"><img alt="Wild Dog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069963966_d61bd7940a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I could have stayed there until they were ready to move but Claire was suffering from the heat, it was intense sat in a tin can with no aircon. The dogs would be there for a long time yet and we had to get back to Skukuza too.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069441738/in/dateposted/" title="Wild Dog"><img alt="Wild Dog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069441738_c909104584_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We left them to it, we were the only car there when we left but I flagged down a car coming the other way and gave them exact details of where to find them.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My wish had been granted though, I'd had a great Wild Dog sighting so even if I'd seen nothing else all day that would have been enough to make it an excellent day's work.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">However, it wasn't all over yet. Some distance further on we came across a Martial Eagle at a waterhole.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069447028/in/dateposted/" title="Martial Eagle"><img alt="Martial Eagle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069447028_6c927be37a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It too was trying to cool down in the heat which was now in the forty something centigrade.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">[</span><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070175117/in/photostream/" title="Martial Eagle"><img alt="Martial Eagle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070175117_905b9258f7_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We watched for a while, this magnificent bird wasn't the first of it's species we'd seen but it was by far the best views.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just look to those talons!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069460473/in/dateposted/" title="Martial Eagle"><img alt="Martial Eagle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069460473_d8b8c2e235_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The south had delivered yet again. I have only described our favourite sightings of the day but there were others too.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069960641/in/dateposted/" title="Red-billed Oxpecker"><img alt="Red-billed Oxpecker" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069960641_5ab7a8425f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oxpeckers are everywhere in the park but they make great subjects.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I started off our trip with my photo objectives being about the smaller animals not all about the cat family. Until the last day there was one species that had eluded me. Often seen briefly as they don't hang around, I had some "record shots" and this one isn't much better but at least I now had a Slender Mongoose in my portfolio!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49070197202/in/dateposted/" title="Slender Mongoose"><img alt="Slender Mongoose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49070197202_daf076ea08_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I still had one last objective though, and yes, it was one of the big cats!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove from the S25 north past Lower Sabie taking the H4-2 and H4-1 before getting to the H12 turn off. We'd been on the road well over 11 hours and driven 240 kilometres in the process but I asked Claire if she'd mind if we took a slight diversion.If you have followed my story you will know I had a close encounter with a Leopard on the S83 what seemed like weeks previously. I had made an attempt to see it again the previous day and failed so this was the last throw of the dice.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As always, Claire was happy to accommodate my request.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was convinced it would be my lucky day but alas it turned out not to be.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had to settle for a Steinbok!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49069966021/in/dateposted/" title="Steinbok"><img alt="Steinbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49069966021_499425afb5_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Never mind, it had been a brilliant day. We headed back to camp. I dropped Claire off at our chalet then took the car to the fuel station to see if I could get the car washed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They closed in 15 minutes but as a favour agreed they would give the car the full works. I have to say they were brilliant. They transformed the interior of the car back to virtually showroom condition from it's previously filthy dusty state. Every nook and cranny of the exterior was gleaming again by the time they finished 35 minutes later. All for just 100 rand... just around £5.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was so grateful I gave them 200 rand.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In return they thanked me profusely and told me I had made their day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Left me feeling good too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, once again we dined in the Cattle Baron restaurant, once again had a good meal with excellent service.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Over dinner I told Claire that I had decided now the car was clean I'd keep it that way. No gravel roads on the way out of the park.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"No Biyamiti Weir?" she asked.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"No" I replied.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"We'll do that again next time we visit!" I replied.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So that was the end of the journey really. The next day we drove out of the park without stopping arriving back in Johannesburg by mid afternoon for an overnight stop before flying home the next day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It had been an epic journey by our standards.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd hit a low point a few days previously but I was extremely sad to be leaving the park when the time came to go home.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">However, as has previously been said to us, you have to leave to be able to come back again!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And we will.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The End</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-48533154944792931772019-11-15T11:29:00.000+00:002019-11-15T12:09:57.481+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Olifants to Skukuza.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Our overnight stop at Olifants had been fine, the lack of a kitchen not a problem for one night but the chalet was clean, tidy and functional. We had swopped three nights at Punda Maria in a Safari Tent for one on Olifants and two in Skukuza at a cost of only the equivalent of £10 so no major loss there. We'd wait to see what we were given at Skukuza but whatever it was to be it was too late to change our minds now! The good news I was to get another breakfast at Tshokwane, an opportunity to see a part of the park as yet unvisited, the south west corner, another opportunity to stop at Biyamiti Weir and a Wifi connection. The downside was my perception that Skukuza was Rest Camp hell, overcrowded and noisy. Ah well, the good outweighed the bad, it was only for 2 nights after all.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We set off from Olifants fairly early. The Vervet Monkeys were already forming raiding parties so I was careful about what I was putting in the car and leaving doors open too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067808558/in/dateposted/" title="7M3A7378"><img alt="7M3A7378" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067808558_6e93fff9e2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a nice drive southwards, we noticed that it was apparent there was more greenery evident , fresh shoots were appearing as a result of the recent rain, even though it had probably been fairly brief.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068329521/in/dateposted/" title="Swainson's Spurfowl"><img alt="Swainson's Spurfowl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068329521_e085b83211_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Somewhere north of Satara we came across a mini Lion jam. A solitary male fast asleep wasn't worth hanging around for in our opinion. Breakfast was calling!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067811788/in/dateposted/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067811788_4047e23f9c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was thrilled at the prospect of revisiting the south but as we drove on I was more than aware that our journey through the park was coming to an end.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I realised that there wouldn't be many more chances for seeing some species that had been so common I had been ignoring them!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068327361/in/dateposted/" title="Greater Kudu female"><img alt="Greater Kudu female" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068327361_d021eafdcc_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What if I hadn't actually got a decent shot already?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067806533/in/dateposted/" title="Wildebeest"><img alt="Wildebeest" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067806533_9da37c5b0a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I decided to grab a few shots as we travelled and stopped for things I wouldn't have done in previous days.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067809553/in/dateposted/" title="Zebra"><img alt="Zebra" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067809553_edfcff0e1b_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I guess if there was one thing I was disappointed in, from a photographic point of view anyway, it was the lack of action shots I had taken.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068325981/in/dateposted/" title="Zebra"><img alt="Zebra" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068325981_bc96674585_c.jpg" width="800" /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have only myself to blame. If you hang around in one place long enough your chances increase. Maybe I'd spent too much time driving ? Maybe I should have spent more time at the waterholes?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There again, most waterholes were dry anyway. Anyway, it's food for thought if I return.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Having breakfasted in fine style, we continued on to Skukuza and once again were able to check in slightly early.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068363301/in/dateposted/" title="Skukuza Rest Camp"><img alt="Skukuza Rest Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068363301_1fd392ccc9_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our accommodation was functional! </span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067891053/in/dateposted/" title="Skukuza Rest Camp"><img alt="Skukuza Rest Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067891053_54b68aceba_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had an outdoor kitchen area, but we'd already decided we would probably eat in the Cattle Baron Restaurant as it was highly praised by most who posted reports. As luck would have it we were almost next to the shop/restaurant complex so an easy walk of just a couple of minutes. The car park was jammed full as per usual but that we'd expected. Might be quieter later, and anyway we'd be going out again soon.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our room itself was bit cramped</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068616792/in/dateposted/" title="Skukuza Rest Camp"><img alt="Skukuza Rest Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068616792_626d3d6169_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They squeeze three single beds in to a tiny space.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068617727/in/photostream/" title="Skukuza Rest Camp"><img alt="Skukuza Rest Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068617727_4a5f32d4b1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm not sure why, there can't be that many threesomes travelling together can there?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, although the chalet/rondel, call it what you may, was probably the scruffiest we stayed in, the kitchen area in particularly looked well worn, everything was still spotlessly clean.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had a quick wander to check out our local surrounds and we were most impressed with the Riverview chalets, mind you when I looked at the prices later they were more expensive than a stay in a Bushveld camp which I would prefer anyway. We checked out the Cattle Baron menu which looked pretty good, had a quick update on the wifi and then decided to go out and explore a little. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Lake Panic and the bird hide is pretty close by so that's where we headed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was surprisingly full, well surprisingly to me anyway, standing room only for much of the time although we had got a seat straight away. The minute I got up to see what could be viewed from the far end of the hide someone had moved in to my seat so I had to move too!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the afternoon, the sun is in the wrong direction for decent photography. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49068537422/in/dateposted/" title="African darter"><img alt="African darter" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068537422_d95aa7af5f_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were a few things about,we even had a Crocodile right in front of us.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49067807218/in/dateposted/" title="Nile Crocodile"><img alt="Nile Crocodile" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067807218_a791c9e888_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was enough to keep us watching for around 45 minutes I'd think. It was certainly cooler in the hide than it was in the car so it seemed the right choice but we didn't see too much that we hadn't already. Instead of driving on we returned to Skukuza, we'd be driving all day tomorrow.I had a plan!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By the time we got back to camp it had transformed! The car parks were virtually empty. Hardly a soul about. It was actually very nice!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I went and spent an hour or so catching up with the news on the internet. Our table was booked for dinner. All was good.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At the appointed hour we wandered the short distance to the restaurant to find it buzzing! It's only 40 or 50m away but from our chalet there was no disturbance whatsoever. It turned out our table was booked inside, they won't let you pre-book tables on the outside veranda, so we decided to wait until one became vacant which it did within a couple of minutes. There was a nice atmosphere in the packed eating area, everyone enjoying dinner under the stars. Despite the constant flow of new diners arriving no-one seemed to be waiting very long to be seated. We didn't wait long for our order to be taken either, drink orders were served almost instantly.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The meal was certainly more than adequate. Straight forward menu, well prepared and the service fantastic.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Full marks to the staff at Cattle Baron, I can see why so many people rate it so highly. We would certainly be eating there again the next evening.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Over dinner we finished our plan for the following day. Claire was up for it too, we'd leave at the crack of dawn, we'd check out an area to the west of us before heading to Biyamiti Weir, after there, and depending what was about, we'd follow some of the route we'd taken on our very first day. That had probably been the singularly best day for sighting we'd had yet. No cats perhaps but stunning views of Hyena, Rhino, Klipspringer, and best of all Wild Dog.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If I could just see some more of the Wild Dogs I'd be more than happy.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">All would be revealed tomorrow!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span><br />
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Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-35311471041635661452019-11-10T22:31:00.002+00:002019-11-10T22:33:09.912+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Olifants...the return<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">It's about 180 kilometres from Sirheni to Olifants so we were in no rush, we could get there with ease in 4 hours as most of the journey was on tar road. Instead of driving the S56 I headed straight to Boyela waterhole again. One last chance of something good perhaps?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Bateleur! Well that was a bit different anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49042415932/in/dateposted/" title="Bateleur"><img alt="Bateleur" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49042415932_63003af78d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was also a large flock of Queleas flying around in their normal hyperactive fashion.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I decided I'd video it as my attempts to get a decent still image seemed doomed to failure.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can double click on the following photo to watch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49038927202/in/dateposted/" title="Red-billed Quelea at the waterhole."><img alt="Red-billed Quelea at the waterhole." height="450" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49038927202_ed68847643_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">However, when I do look at the still shot there's another bird species in amongst the flock and I haven't as yet worked out what they are. Any ideas welcomed!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044148173/in/dateposted/" title="Quelea flock"><img alt="Quelea flock" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044148173_6e290e2997_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I turned to Claire and said "Ready to go?" when suddenly an approaching group caught my eye, at first it was just Zebra but there amongst them a single Roan Antelope.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49041701238/in/dateposted/" title="Roan Antelope"><img alt="Roan Antelope" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49041701238_ba8f93ccc8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They approached with caution and I don't blame them, two days ago there had been a dozen Lions here, and judging by the skeleton of the Buffalo they were regular visitors.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49042205676/in/dateposted/" title="Roan Antelope"><img alt="Roan Antelope" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49042205676_3140540af0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They kept on coming forward. I was delighted, I had just two species left that I wanted to see, this had been one of them, the other Sable Antelope.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49041703838/in/dateposted/" title="Roan Antelope"><img alt="Roan Antelope" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49041703838_1ddf1a47fd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Roan looked somewhat perplexed by the Bateleur and didn't come any closer until the bird flew away.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49042424127/in/dateposted/" title="Roan Antelope"><img alt="Roan Antelope" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49042424127_98d2522950_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Zebra though were extremely skittish. For no reason one panicked and the rest followed suit.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044867272/in/photostream/" title="BH2I6737"><img alt="BH2I6737" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044867272_04726cdc89_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Having left the water, the Roan didn't return either, leaving just the Zebra to quench their thirst.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044865007/in/dateposted/" title="Zebra"><img alt="Zebra" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044865007_7a7811ba17_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">He waited until they had all finished and when they all left together so we did too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our next good sighting didn't come until we were almost at Mopani.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My 4th sighting of Ground Hornbill.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044651986/in/dateposted/" title="Southern Ground Hornbill"><img alt="Southern Ground Hornbill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044651986_d7510ece84_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By now though it was really hot, and even though they were close, photography was out.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We carried on to Mopani and had some lunch enjoying the view from the outdoor seating in the restaurant. Way down below, I spotted some large black looking birds, I returned to the car for binoculars. Delighted with what I saw I then went back for my camera too!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49041705783/in/dateposted/" title="Spur-winged Goose"><img alt="Spur-winged Goose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49041705783_b4bc255834_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Spur-winged Goose...and the only ones I saw during our trip. Most other diners seemed to bring all their photography gear with them to the table but I think that was more for security than attempting to use it. I must admit, I never once felt that my car was in danger of being broken in to in any of the camp car parks.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Continuing south it was hot dry and dusty. Mini tornados, whipping up dust and leaves were suddenly appearing on a regular basis.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044870252/in/dateposted/" title="Dust Devil"><img alt="Dust Devil" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044870252_a60e9a3a2f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You wondered how quickly a fire could spread in these conditions and prayed no one would be stupid enough to throw a lit cigarette butt out of their car window.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The only other seen thing of note was a Purple Roller that posed quite nicely and for the first time for me, showed where they get the name from. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49044652331/in/dateposted/" title="Purple Roller"><img alt="Purple Roller" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49044652331_dc6bd46a42_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I always thought that Rufus-crowned was the more appropriate description.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, we arrived in very good time to see the nightly hunt by the "Bat Hawk". I stood for an hour before the bats finally emerged from their roost so keen was I to improve on my previous shots. It was one of the compensations if I had missed out on not going to Punda Maria.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Alas, my enthusiasm was not rewarded. From a birding perspective it was a no show.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I did see this little fellow run across the car park lot though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49042214146/in/dateposted/" title="Bushbuck"><img alt="Bushbuck" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49042214146_572a9630c4_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Causing one car to brake rapidly too!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49041710563/in/dateposted/" title="Bushbuck"><img alt="Bushbuck" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49041710563_e6d44a8a2a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our accommodation this time was in a different chalet. When we'd changed our booking we'd had little choice in where to go due to limited availability. Olifants was the really the only choice for a half way stop, Skukuza at the other side was reluctantly accepted although the positive was that they had both wifi and allegedly, the best restaurant in the park. Both accommodations we were informed had a shower/toilet but the Olifants one didn't have a kitchen, you used the communal one. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49043010063/in/dateposted/" title="Olifants Rest Camp KNP"><img alt="Olifants Rest Camp KNP" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49043010063_d105b18918_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You did however have a fridge/freezer, table and chairs and a Braii. Good because I swore I wasn't eating in the restaurant there!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Interestingly, although the view wasn't as good as our previous room we still had an impressive one.<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49043726107/in/dateposted/" title="Olifants Rest Camp KNP"><img alt="Olifants Rest Camp KNP" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49043726107_305f29a765_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had been allocated a room next to the one that you get charged another 235R per night for, purely for the view. Our original one you paid an additional 600R but it did have a decent kitchen and an outstanding view. It was only when we decided to light the braii we realised that not only no kitchen but no utensils, plates etc. They did give you two glasses though so at least the beer was not drunk out of a can. As our purchased choice for dinner that night consisted of ribs, corn and garlic bread it was a finger job anyway and I used our own bread knife and another to turn the food on the coals. Fortunately we were there for just a night!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Next day, Skukuza!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC. </span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-83884337961374935232019-11-09T12:47:00.000+00:002019-11-10T21:17:38.174+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019. Sirheni Bushveld camp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again it was time to move. The car packed up we were ready.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As I reversed out of our parking position in front of the chalet I was thinking to myself I was glad to be moving.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I snapped out of my thoughts when I heard and felt the car hit something. A nasty crunching sound.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You may or may not have experienced it yourself, I don't think Claire ever has but it's not my first time I have to admit.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A thin tree( must have sprung up overnight) was obscured from the view over my shoulder by the rear roof support and the raised headrest on the back seat. I did have a wing mirror though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Should have seen it! Plain careless really. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037511017/in/dateposted/" title="Oooops!"><img alt="Oooops!" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037511017_62fec03fcd_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's only a bit of metal, actually it was plastic when I think about it, no one was hurt. It was easy to fix but it still ruined my day. Claire was supportive , it was only minor but I was annoyed with myself. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Hey ho! I eventually got the bill and it wasn't too bad the labour ridiculously cheap at 280R, the paint ridiculously expensive at 1800R but even so it still not worth bothering to claim on my excess policy.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The drive didn't get make the day much better either.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We tried the Red Rocks route again, then the S56 to Sirheni.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nothing out of the ordinary to be seen and when I arrived in Sirheni I declared to Claire I wasn't going anywhere until it was the day we were leaving.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our chalet in Sirheni was fabulous!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had a big lounge/diner.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037277406/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037277406_510a682f6e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The kitchen was very well equipped with everything you could need.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036774263/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036774263_2837046535_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The bedroom was big and spacious.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036774203/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036774203_def58b8fa3_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037493862/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037493862_e2318aaa7e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was an outdoor but covered seating area</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037280711/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037280711_57b5d06991_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were right in the corner so it was very quiet, very private.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036778668/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036778668_7f06769c1d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I set off to investigate the two hides that are there but there wasn't anything to see although I did flush a Bushbuck that was grazing inside the camp fence.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The view from our chalet showed us that game was passing through.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037498147/in/dateposted/" title="Sirheni Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Sirheni Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037498147_b1a2c8bb85_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We saw Impala, Reedbok and Zebra. The tragedy is that until a few years ago we'd have been looking at a waterhole but the dam broke and it has never been repaired so the two hides no longer have the same appeal they no doubt once did.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The only water was in the tiny little concrete bird bath below our patio. I immediately filled it with water and during the course of the next 36 hours sat and watched to see what turned up whilst sat at the table processing my previous photos.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was lovely to have a break from driving.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From a birding prospective the camp wasn't the best really but perhaps that was a view that was twisted by the fact that nearly all the species I saw had already been seen elsewhere.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Arrow-marked Babbler</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037178941/in/dateposted/" title="Arrow-marked Babbler"><img alt="Arrow-marked Babbler" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037178941_90807a076e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Blue Waxbill</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037393547/in/dateposted/" title="Blue Waxbill"><img alt="Blue Waxbill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037393547_1ffdc78b5d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yellow-fronted Canary</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037395577/in/dateposted/" title="Yellow-fronted Canary"><img alt="Yellow-fronted Canary" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037395577_d245c82779_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Red-headed Weaver</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036674878/in/dateposted/" title="Red-headed Weaver"><img alt="Red-headed Weaver" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036674878_3a011713b1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and the ever present Cape Glossy Starling were some of the many that called in..</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037394682/in/dateposted/" title="Cape Glossy Starling"><img alt="Cape Glossy Starling" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037394682_c35fd5daa6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were however two new additions, one to the drinking pool, a Yellow-throated Petronia which I almost overlooked as a Sparrow.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036673128/in/dateposted/" title="Yellow-throated Petronia"><img alt="Yellow-throated Petronia" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036673128_7100b2c33e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The other I would never have found if one of the staff hadn't shown me exactly were to look!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This African Scops Owl is so well camouflaged and actually much smaller than the photo suggests.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036672068/in/dateposted/" title="African Scops Owl"><img alt="African Scops Owl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036672068_8d655bf3b9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I went back a couple of times before eventually getting a shot with an eye half opened as dusk was approaching.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'd had a very restful day and a half but that was me ready to go again, so much so I decided to spend the last hour of our second night there by driving over to the Boyela waterhole . It's a short drive maybe 10-15 minutes away and you never know, there might be some Lion action again!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Well there wasn't. But there were some Zebra but they were just leaving</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037391657/in/dateposted/" title="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP"><img alt="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037391657_a6e0cc5ec0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One single Elephant monopolised the water for most of the time so I just messed about with that one.<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036665173/in/dateposted/" title="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP"><img alt="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036665173_309726e6ff_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We didn't haver that many nights left in the park, might as well fill my boots with Elephant while I can, might be a long time before I get another opportunity!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49036667903/in/dateposted/" title="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP"><img alt="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49036667903_8308aebdba_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037172081/in/dateposted/" title="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP"><img alt="Boyela Waterhole Kruger NP" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037172081_bc97c769ed_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have to say I did like Sirheni, personally I would definitely say it was the best all round accommodation for space and facilities. The camp itself wasn't as good as Shimuwini in terms of the views from the camp. Neither are as well placed as Talamati in terms of drives from the camp but Sirheni has excellent options too. It's certainly my view that Bushveld camps are a better proposition for us.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have mentioned weather in my appraisal of the camps accommodation and for good reason. We were lucky that only on one night, and that was in Sirheni, were were obliged to "eat in" and that wasn't exactly true either. We ate on the undercover outside table. The problem was the wind.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In our corner position near to the adjoining bush, with an area littered with crisp dead leaves and the park in a drought there was no way I could risk a Braii when the wind was blowing so strongly.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One of the nearby chalets at Olifants showed the outcome and the risk of a flying spark.</span><br />
<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49037536152/in/dateposted/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Untitled"><img alt="Untitled" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49037536152_7ccc690a4a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The flames had spread from one thatched roof to the neighbouring one too. Fortunately the fire was contained to the two chalets, no one was injured thankfully but two of the best located chalets are still waiting repair.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, we used the provided oven to cook on this occasion which was really useful. We would have been stuck in Shimuwini with the two poor gas hobs and no electrical appliances. The main camps all have restaurants of course. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Quite literally food for thought before you decide what might suit you.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Or should that be thought for food?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-35899864291906705332019-11-08T10:17:00.000+00:002019-11-08T10:21:18.247+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019. Making the most of it!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">With our new plan in place I felt positive again. It's often the way that around the 3 week mark of a month's holiday you start to get a little travel weary, maybe start thinking of home. Well we do anyway. I was still enjoying myself but beginning to think that I wasn't seeing too much in the way of new things...I guess familiarity was starting to set in, I would have been enthralled to be parked next to a pride of sleeping Lions three weeks previously but now they were boring. A Leopard feeding on a kill up a tree? When one has been stalking prey just 10m in front of you an obscured view of one eating up a tree just doesn't cut the mustard anymore! It was that really, I guess it was the amount of driving I had been doing, far more than I'd envisaged maybe? Well certainly in terms of comfort and time. Maybe an SUV would have been a more comfortable ride than the Suzuki we were given? Then there was the dust. You can drive all day with the aircon on but it's not the same. You need to hear as well as see things, feel the breeze as you drive along but dust was a problem. When a car was coming towards you you had to get the windows closed as soon as possible, but even if you managed it the dust still got through the system somehow. I guess it was hanging in the air, you could feel it hit the back of your throat. The interior of the car was thick with red dust. The other thing to consider is the speed at which you drive... 40kph on gravel, 50 on tar. At those speeds it takes a long time to get from A to B despite it looking a short hop on your map. Mind you, it's excellent for fuel economy!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Today however, I was going to go for it again. I was actually at the gate before they opened and joined the waiting queue of keen game drivers, nearly all of the half dozen cars appeared to be occupied by single men! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I guess females have more sense than to be up that early or, more likely, they take longer to get ready for the off!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, I was on my own and had decided to head north to the waterhole were we'd seen the skeleton of the Buffalo the day before. Boyela.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's about 30kms from Shingwedzi, a 35 minute drive. I was following another car for most of the way but around a kilometre away from the water hole I caught a glimpse of something in the bush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Southern Ground Hornbill!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031871883/in/photostream/" title="Southern Ground Hornbill"><img alt="Southern Ground Hornbill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031871883_b8f4e9e871_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Two males were working their way through the grass</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032378386/in/dateposted/" title="Southern Ground Hornbill"><img alt="Southern Ground Hornbill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032378386_49a78c62b1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They were only my third sighting and probably the best views so far.Not a bad start to the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't stay with them for long as they veered off deeper in to the bush, instead I carried on to the waterhole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Wow! Talk about timing! A young male Lion had just arrived to drink.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031876233/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031876233_ec557155dd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What a thirst!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031875403/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031875403_77224f59a1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">He was there for what seemed like an age, just when you thought he's finished it was head down again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032599917/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032599917_412f1c822f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had got lots of photos by now and decided I would nip back and see what the Hornbill were up to. They'd gone deeper in to the bush and although visible were a long way off.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I went back to the waterhole and again, my timing was perfect!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Parked on the tar road the Lion had walked down the side of the parking area and was heading my way!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032598737/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032598737_b73293c645_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This time I was a safe distance away, maybe 20m.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032377226/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032377226_4e7631a832_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So I felt quite comfortable as he crossed the road in front of me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032376976/in/photostream/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032376976_81c8d359d6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That was one well fed Lion!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032599072/in/dateposted/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032599072_2beebf0a4e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The other two cars in the parking area were leaving now and one of them stopped to tell me the rest of the pride were lying down some 50m beyond the waterhole. Until I looked through my binoculars I would have completely missed them!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It must have been 7.00am by now so I returned to camp to see how Claire was getting on. I drove over the rear causeway entrance to camp and to my amazement found a new bird for the trip stood right out in the middle of the dry river bed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032602667/in/dateposted/" title="Great White Pelican"><img alt="Great White Pelican" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032602667_f0f4d9be98_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was delighted to make an addition to my list, new sightings were getting more difficult to find but I usually see Pelican associated with water, not where it's as dry as a bone!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire was up and ready for the off when I got back so we decided on the S50 again, the one that follows the river. Once again there wasn't that much to see.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032376456/in/dateposted/" title="Emerald-spotted Wood Dove"><img alt="Emerald-spotted Wood Dove" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032376456_a126cab75d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The emerald green spots on the Wood Dove caught my eye, they seemed brighter than ever in the dull light.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We saw Warthog</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031873208/in/dateposted/" title="Warthog"><img alt="Warthog" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031873208_36e789f84c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and Steinbok</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032380436/in/photostream/" title="Steinbok"><img alt="Steinbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032380436_601804d8f8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">female Nyala</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032601412/in/photostream/" title="Nyala"><img alt="Nyala" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032601412_13f65e82ac_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Much the same as last time other than we saw a pride of Lion on the other side of the bank this time too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032595502/in/dateposted/" title="Lion Pride"><img alt="Lion Pride" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032595502_92ca8f75c3_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The weather was still very dull and in fact spots of rain started appearing on the windscreen. After a minute, enough raindrops to have to clear them with the wipers.Then before you knew it it was raining properly! It lasted all of 5 minutes before stopping and brightening up again. This was heaven sent though, at least the dust wasn't a problem anymore. Mind you as we continued south neither was the traffic, as of the last time I think perhaps just 3 or 4 cars passed going the opposite way in all of 50kms.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We took a look at the Nyawatsu bird hide but other than an Openbill Stork there was little to report.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032373261/in/dateposted/" title="African Openbill"><img alt="African Openbill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032373261_b351b10227_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We stopped to snap a Brown Snake Eagle</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031872308/in/dateposted/" title="Brown Snake-eagle"><img alt="Brown Snake-eagle" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031872308_d9ecc13b78_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and some Guineafowl</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49031878248/in/photostream/" title="Helmeted Guineafowl"><img alt="Helmeted Guineafowl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49031878248_06e161ae29_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I am always trying for a better shot, those however weren't!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again a short diversion took us to Grootvlei waterhole where one belligerent Elephant seemed to be looking for trouble.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032373171/in/dateposted/" title="Fight? Handbags!"><img alt="Fight? Handbags!" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032373171_c23a3f1fcf_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The action was more a drawn handbags affair then a proper fight but it kept us amused for a while despite it being a fair distance away.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Moving on southwards we stopped when we saw a parked car to ask them what they'd found. "Oh nothing they replied, "we are watching the birds". They were surprised to see I was interested!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We ended up chatting for some while before eventually moving on. They told us that there were Lion and surrounding Hyena on a kill just off the road if we kept going south.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That sounded interesting so away we went.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove on and on. Past the Tropic of Capricorn Rd, past the Nshawu waterhole were I'd watched the Lion hunt and still no signs. This was getting silly.We were well south of Mopani now so we decided we might as well go and get some lunch there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was then back on the S50 and eventually heading north again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That's where we spotted the kill. It had been obscured when we were driving south but noticeable driving north.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It shows how opinions differ between folks!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just off the road was about 800m away! We'd driven at least an extra 30km in our search and to be honest, at that distance not even worth a record shot! Once again we were mounting up the kilometres on the clock, driving a long way for little reward.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We didn't fancy going all the way back to Shingwedzi on the S50 so tried our luck on the Tropic Rd again. Third time lucky it wasn't although we did get some decent sightings of a Kori Bustard.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032376781/in/dateposted/" title="Kori Bustard"><img alt="Kori Bustard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49032376781_8c658129af_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Eventually back at camp I decided I'd had enough driving for one day. We also decided we'd try the restaurant that evening too. After chatting to the people on the next table we settled for one of the basic burgers on offer and to be fair it was pretty good. I was also recommended the Impala lager not the Castle I usually drank.Very nice indeed, nice for a change as was dining out!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was off to Sirheni tomorrow. No choice other than to eat in! No restaurant there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What we didn't realise was we would be very much "eating in".</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49032376781/in/dateposted/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Kori Bustard"><span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></a></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-79378955825271034392019-11-07T19:03:00.001+00:002019-11-07T19:04:12.153+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019. The top of the park.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">So, decisions made I was risking loosing some time in what was supposedly the best birding region in the park. We set off fairly early and to be honest it wasn't a problem waking up.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In Shingwedzi it wasn't the wildlife that woke you, it was the sound of diesel engines chugging past our bedroom window. It started at around 4.30am when presumably the night drive went out. At around 5.20 the first cars were heading to the gate ready for the off at 5.30. I wasn't be joining them today, instead I would have a wander around the camp to check out the birds there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I drew a blank!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We got on our way not long after 7.00am but it's a long way to Pafuri, about a two hour drive. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We passed by Boyela waterhole on the way and had a quick look. Nothing today but there must have been some very close views recently.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This recently departed Buffalo was right on the edge of the tar road!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029867327/in/dateposted/" title="Recently departed"><img alt="Recently departed" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029867327_4cb0efc108_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Between there and Pafuri there had been little evidence of anything being alive out there. The scenery does change quite significantly as you progress towards Pafuri Gate, the flat expanses on either side suddenly become a bit more rugged, more hills, a bit more greenery.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Turning left just before the border post with Mozambique you take a tar road to Crooks Corner so called because of it's history as a gathering point for smugglers, thieves and poachers who could escape across the river to a choice of two different countries should the law come looking for them.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was definitely a different scene altogether. The trees were tall and lush, too big to be accessed or damaged by elephant </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029783751/in/dateposted/" title="Pafuri"><img alt="Pafuri" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029783751_8d70a6471b_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not that far away the scenery was devastated by elephants.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029996412/in/dateposted/" title="Elephant destruction"><img alt="Elephant destruction" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029996412_ff8d93d877_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and we had witnessed this damage as it happened in many places in the park but the north was particularly affected.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029151108/in/dateposted/" title="Elephant destruction"><img alt="Elephant destruction" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029151108_96d44843de_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With the Elephant having few enemies their survival rate is very high and they are obviously breeding at a great rate too. We saw countless youngsters.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The clamp down on poaching and the ban on ivory in most countries has in itself created a new problem.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How to control Elephant numbers. Any suggestion of culling brings about howls of protest but if they are allowed to continuing destroying the habitat of lots of other species there will be a knock on effect.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No doubt a solution will be found, perhaps a compromise. Time will tell.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Meantime, I'm back in Pafuri and feeling a tad frustrated!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There is bird song everywhere but in the dense foliage it's hard to see anything and of course you can't get out of the car, well only at the picnic site.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029995967/in/dateposted/" title="Pafuri"><img alt="Pafuri" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029995967_20e7b17bab_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The picnic site was surprisingly busy with a dozen or more cars and a couple of OSV's parked there too. Sadly it's another site that doesn't offer food and drink so for us it was onward to Punda Maria for brunch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At least I'd managed some shots of one new bird but that was it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029645836/in/dateposted/" title="Trumpeter Hornbill"><img alt="Trumpeter Hornbill" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029645836_80356abd31_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Trumpeter Hornbill was a nice capture though!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I also got my best photo opportunities for White-fronted Bee-eater so that was another plus.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029860812/in/dateposted/" title="White-fronted Bee-eater"><img alt="White-fronted Bee-eater" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029860812_8743a75acc_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">but otherwise it was very disappointing. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove on to Punda Maria. I had heard and read great reports about the waterhole in camp there and that was one thing I was going to miss out on, I never did get to see it either, nor did I see what would have been our safari tent accommodation.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We did see the alternative chalet accommodation and it wasn't particularly impressive from the outside. It looked like a row of workers cottages which apparently they once were. It had originally been built as a camp for the anti poaching team 100 years ago.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They had a nice little restaurant and the shop typical of most camps.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We tried their toasties to see how they compared with Shingwedzi and fair do's, although the presentation wasn't as elegant they tasted equally good!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was no reason to stay around the camp, we took the gravel road to get there, the S60 and had seen nothing. The temperature was now over 40c degrees. It was hot, dusty and uncomfortable.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Even the Buffalo were lying down in what little shade was available. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029657371/in/dateposted/" title="Buffalo"><img alt="Buffalo" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029657371_4420d2058a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Beyond them, Elephant digging for water in a dry river bed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We headed south taking the rear causeway entrance to Shingwedzi.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Marabou Stork was stood within only a few metres of the car and yet the heat haze made a sharp photograph impossible.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029865012/in/dateposted/" title="Marabou Stork"><img alt="Marabou Stork" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029865012_a2ccbbe285_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I decided to stay put for the rest of the day, it was too hot to be bothered. Claire still hadn't used her sunbed and never would do now. It was too hot to be under the sun! They have a swimming pool in the camp but somehow they didn't appeal to us. We never did understand why, it just seemed inappropriate in the middle of a rest camp!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Even the Braii had it's drawback, well next doors did. I was using charcoal which doesn't smoke much, our next door neighbours were using wood and the acrid smoke coming from it drifted straight in to our dining area. I could see other chalets suffering all around the camp. Everyone seems to braii and the majority are using wood. It was another reason not to be too fond of Shingwedzi! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-57327801248762514302019-11-07T16:40:00.003+00:002019-11-07T16:42:17.080+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Shingwedzi blues.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">So, it was time to move on from Mopani Camp, on to Shingwedzi for the next three nights before the next taste of a Bushveld Camp again when we were due at Sirheni, our penultimate stop before exiting the park in the north and heading back to Johannesberg, the airport and home.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">First thing it was clear up the mess again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes, another visit from the Honey Badger. The freezer had remained unopened but the bin was pushed over, and the contents dragged out. There was no way I could leave that mess lying around even if my neighbours left it for the cleaner to do, I wasn't going to do so.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again, I went out in the car on my own. I had to find out what happened after we left the waterhole the previous evening.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Would the Lions be there?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Had they made a kill later?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Twenty minutes later all was there to see, or wasn't as it happened.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The place was deserted!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That might mean the Lions were still hiding in the grass and consequently everything else was staying away. I didn't have the time to hang around and find out and so left heading back to camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On the way I came across two Hyenas.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029273562/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029273562_13f38836f8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This one was perhaps following the scent of the one ahead of it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029058936/in/photostream/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029058936_abd4dbb17b_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That one was carrying the skull of what appeared to be a young Buffalo. They were both heading away from the waterhole I'd just been to.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How long ago had that kill been made? Was it the previous night?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Who knows!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I popped in to the Shipandani hide, well the dam just in front of it, for one last look. Maybe the Hippos would be there this time.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Egyptian Geese family were still there and none of the goslings had disappeared since my first visit either. All six were getting bigger now,. I wondered how many had been in the original clutch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028547198/in/dateposted/" title="Egyptian Geese"><img alt="Egyptian Geese" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028547198_4ffc09ec38_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Hippo were indeed a bit closer than I had seen in several days so I manoeuvred the car in to a position where the sun would suit.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028543258/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo and Oxpeckers"><img alt="Hippo and Oxpeckers" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028543258_4fc75d9168_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That looked nice, I just needed a bit of action.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028545368/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo and Oxpeckers"><img alt="Hippo and Oxpeckers" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028545368_fb8667bc6a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Maybe the Oxpeckers would provide it?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028543488/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo and Oxpeckers"><img alt="Hippo and Oxpeckers" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028543488_ec3aeff4b9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Hippo certainly wasn't going to, it submerged and that was that!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028543708/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo and Oxpeckers"><img alt="Hippo and Oxpeckers" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028543708_21c8092aef_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the meantime another car had arrived and was now drawing alongside me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She stopped, it was the girl from Australia who I'd met at Shimuwini and who had helped when she had a slow puncture in a tyre on the day she was leaving.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She brought me up to date on what happened, her dealings with the rental company and her experience at the next camps she'd stayed at. The previous night she's stayed in a chalet almost next to ours but we would never have known that, prior to that she'd been at Punda Maria and Parfuri.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At Punda Maria she had had a bad experience, her Bush Tent was in poor repair, the weather had been extremely windy and she'd been in fear of being blown away and had hardly slept. She cancelled her last night and moved on to Pafuri Camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Punda Maria was our last stop too. In a Safari Tent. This was depressing news indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We bade our farewells and I headed back to Claire and the move northwards to our new camp.Shingwedzi.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove straight there, for once arriving before checking in time was officially open but it wasn't a problem, our room was ready.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028208431/in/dateposted/" title="Shingwedzi Rest Camp"><img alt="Shingwedzi Rest Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028208431_78388ddf9e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The room was clean and tidy as ever.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The kitchen diner an outdoor one but with decent cover from the elements should you need it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028208356/in/dateposted/" title="Shingwedzi Rest Camp"><img alt="Shingwedzi Rest Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028208356_90b026f2f6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I don't know why but I took a dislike to the place instantly.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028208941/in/photostream/" title="Shingwedzi Rest Camp"><img alt="Shingwedzi Rest Camp" height="409" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028208941_23bd59d890_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Maybe it was the outlook. The proximity to our neighbours, what the picture doesn't show is that we were in a semi detached chalet although noise wasn't an issue. No, we'd discover what was later on that evening!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The view across from the patio area overlooked that bare expanse of soil and leafless trees to the other chalets. I guess we'd been spoilt up to now. The chickens had come home to roost!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I hid the extent of my disappointment for the time being as we unpacked before heading out for an afternoon drive.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'd been looking forward to exploring the S56. I had heard great things from several people over the last few days. Lions on a kill, a Leopard with cubs showing really well. Exciting stuff I thought and compensation for the camp!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove slowly up the gravel road without seeing a Leopard at all. A car coming the opposite direction stopped us and asked if we seen them. No we hadn't but in return they told us there were 11 Lion sleeping under a tree some distance further on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We found them easily, not just because there were three or four cars there, they were so close to the road you couldn't miss them!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028548973/in/dateposted/" title="Sleepy Lions"><img alt="Sleepy Lions" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028548973_1fbd1336f5_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The nearest ones were very close indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029058386/in/dateposted/" title="Sleepy Lions"><img alt="Sleepy Lions" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029058386_c7a0231375_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Did I feel threatened sitting there with the window open? </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, not at all they weren't interested in me at all.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To be honest, I wasn't interested in them either. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sleepy Lion had nothing on my last two encounters. It was boring.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We moved on again turning back only when we got to the entrance of the private road to Sirheni.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sirheni? Yes the next camp we were due at and we hadn't even spent a night at Shingwedzi yet!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Retuning back we did come across the Leopards, the views were not the best. There were definitely two in the tree but I guess there might have been a third too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029062731/in/dateposted/" title="Leopards with kill"><img alt="Leopards with kill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029062731_880afdd6ac_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They had an Impala kill up a tree and they were busy eating it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49029268967/in/photostream/" title="Leopards with kill"><img alt="Leopards with kill" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49029268967_2de84e73f7_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The adult appeared to be on top, one of the cubs attacking the carcass from below.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We watched for maybe 15-20 minutes before getting too hot to want to continue. The photo opportunity wasn't up to much so I took Claire back to camp again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd been on the road for three weeks now. I felt as if we'd seen most things we'd come to see, the only thing that had been a bit disappointing was the poor showing on the birding front. Maybe that would get better when we moved to Punda Maria but I had my doubts. We were not that far away and there was no signs of the drought conditions changing. We needed rain to bring the migrating birds in. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had made a note of the distance from the Leopards up the tree and the tar road at the end of the S56. I left Claire in camp and I went back to see if I could get some better images of the cubs playing on the ground.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I watched as the trip recorder clocked up the distance.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Exactly 14.5 kms from the tar road.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">But no tree, no Leopards.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Had I gone too far and missed it?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How could I make such a mistake!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I carried on, I could always turn back and look agin later.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The tree was another couple of kilometres further on. There were no cars, no leopards.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A wasted journey..again!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On the return journey I made a decision. I was going to make a radical change to our plans.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't want to stay in Shingwedzi a day longer than needed. I still wanted to try Sirheni though, the Bushveld Camps were on the whole a lot better in my opinion. Small and private a world apart from Shingwedzi which I saw as soulless.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On return to camp I went straight to reception and asked if we could bring forward the Sirheni booking. Unfortunately we couldn't, they were fully booked for the following two nights but had a free place the night after. We were booked in then anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I returned to Claire and told her what I'd decided.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She was in full agreement, we needed to change our plan. We went back to reception and together decided what we would do. We'd have to stay at Shingwedzi if we wanted to go to Sirheni, the option was to cancel Punda Maria avoiding the possibility that the accommodation was sub standard.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At short notice there wasn't much of a choice, we couldn't go north to south in one day. It was too far really.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We agreed we'd have one night in Olifants and two in Skukuza.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Skukuza? That campsite hell ?! All those people?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If it meant that I got to get on the internet and could go back to Biyamiti Weir I was prepared to suffer. In fact I was looking forward to the whole trip.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our journey time back to Johannesberg would be cut by a couple of hours at least. We knew the way as we didn't have a map. I'd get another opportunity of photographing the Bat Hawk at Olifants ( I wasn't to know it wasn't a Bat Hawk back then) and best of all we'd get another Breakfast roll at Tshokwane. It would be nostalgia all the way!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I instantly cheered up and so did Claire.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What about Pafuri, the birds and Punda Maria?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd travel there tomorrow. If it was good, we'd go again, next time from Sirheni.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">All was settled then</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-41415723636451128242019-11-07T13:49:00.001+00:002019-11-07T13:50:36.073+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Nothing happens in the north!!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">This was our last full day in Mopani Rest Camp before we were due to head north to Shingwedzi the following day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Remember I said there was possibly a weakness in my plan? It was about to reveal itself again!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd been south from camp a couple of times so really the only option was to go north but then of course we'd be taking the routes we should be doing from Shingwedzi!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ah well, the decision was made, that was the way we would travel today.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">First we needed to clear up the mess!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">When we'd arrived at Mopani we were greeted with this sign on the door of the refrigerator.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027666703/in/dateposted/" title="Honey Badger warning"><img alt="Honey Badger warning" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027666703_604677d896_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Really? They expect you do drag your 'fridge/freezer loaded with supplies out of the concrete housing, turn it round and manoeuvre it back in place.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028191551/in/dateposted/" title="Full supplies."><img alt="Full supplies." height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028191551_f2e8f64353_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Don't be ridiculous SANParks! No wonder our ours already had a wheel missing making dragging it our even more precarious.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Fortunately I had a cunning plan!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The luggage straps from our suitcases.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028390582/in/dateposted/" title="The impossible request"><img alt="The impossible request" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028390582_55203640f7_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It worked a treat and the fridge wasn't raided. We hadn't put anything in the freezer other than plastic bottles full of water to create ice blocks to transport our fresh food when the time came to move on. We didn't want to risk frozen food defrosting so our intention was to freeze it when we got to the next camp, thus extending it's useful life.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Honey Badger out of spite no doubt, open the unprotected freezer and broke my chilled glasses and gnawed the plastic bottles puncturing them!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It then tipped the bin over and scattered the contents taking out the remains of any food to eat.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Clever little critters and one I had hoped to see. It was now my number one target but I wasn't prepared to stay up all night to see one!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As it happened our planned journey would save me the effort!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove up the tar road and took the S52, otherwise known as the Red Rocks loop. Once again it had proven unfruitful all along the H1-6 and most of the S52.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were getting used to drawing a blank on our travels! We'd almost got to the end of this gravel loop when we spotted our first live creature, a male Nyala.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028444472/in/dateposted/" title="Nyala"><img alt="Nyala" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028444472_9d71169321_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I say live because the remains of a Buffalo could be seen down below from the Red Rocks view point, it was just that today wasn't going to be the day we'd see that kind of action.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Suddenly Claire declared "Over there"..."Somethings moving!"</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh yes there was, fantastic, what a sighting that was.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028428422/in/dateposted/" title="Honey Badger"><img alt="Honey Badger" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028428422_c03d5517df_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was some distance away, maybe 50m.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028428662/in/dateposted/" title="Honey Badger"><img alt="Honey Badger" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028428662_edff3874b2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was moving quite quickly, searching and sniffing as it scurried across the open clearing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I stopped the car and that alerted the Honey Badger too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028226786/in/photostream/" title="Honey Badger"><img alt="Honey Badger" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028226786_b79f58a0d0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">For an instant it stood still, just enough time to grab those three shots, then it scurried on, disappearing behind bushes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was elated at this sighting but you always wish for more. We are never satisfied are we!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I drove on and about 100m further down the road the badger scampered across the road in front of me, maybe 25 m away. It was gone in seconds. Ah well, be thankful that you saw it Dave. Not that many are lucky so I was grateful not only to the Badger but to Claire for spotting it!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We weren't far from Shingwedzi Camp so we called in for breakfast.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028185141/in/dateposted/" title="Shingwedzi Toastie!"><img alt="Shingwedzi Toastie!" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028185141_5c38c52e80_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes the Bacon and Egg toasties come with chips but that's OK. I was hungry.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My faith in Tindlovu catering was restored. It was delicious!! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We continued our journey southward taking the gravel S50. The first part is very scenic, there are numerous mini loops giving views over the river below. We could see quite a lot of game, Hippos, and waterbirds like African Spoonbill and Openbills. All too distant for a decent photo opportunity though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Bee-Eater did present one though. I'd seen Bee-eater on numerous occasions but still wasn't happy that I had got the shot! It wasn't any different here, all a bit messy!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028425447/in/dateposted/" title="White-fronted Bee-eater"><img alt="White-fronted Bee-eater" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028425447_826aaac724_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Further on a Steinbok was feeding off the edge of the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028232541/in/dateposted/" title="Steinbok"><img alt="Steinbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028232541_615378dcf2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and further down on one of the loops, another one!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028443537/in/dateposted/" title="Sharpe's Grysbok"><img alt="Sharpe's Grysbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028443537_e4682fa68f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oops ! Another error. I didn't realise until I returned home to the UK I had been looking at the rarity that is Sharpe's Grysbok. Twice I could have taken a lot more images and failed to take advantage believing it was the same as the countless other shots I had taken of Steinbok.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028231701/in/dateposted/" title="Sharpe's Grysbok"><img alt="Sharpe's Grysbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028231701_a1901ef127_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At least I now know how to recognise the difference having learnt the hard way!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I mean there is a similarity with this Bushbuck we saw nearby too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027718663/in/photostream/" title="Sharpe's Grysbok"><img alt="Sharpe's Grysbok" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027718663_31bdc2ee1f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once the S52 leaves the side of the river it becomes a sparse open grassland. The road surface is corrugated and it's an uncomfortable ride for many many miles.To break the monotony we called off at the Grootvlei Dam waterhole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was a huge flock of Red-billed Queleas doing their usual mass flight movements.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027708958/in/photostream/" title="Red-billed Quelea"><img alt="Red-billed Quelea" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027708958_ca1a929ca1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Why they are so skittish is a mystery to me, they expand a lot of energy for no apparent purpose although they eventually had reason when a troop of Baboon came wandering down to drink.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028430222/in/dateposted/" title="Chacma Baboon"><img alt="Chacma Baboon" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028430222_5f655b1826_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Onwards we went until we got to the S143, Tropic of Capricorn road. The one that had proved so successful the day before. I would love to find those Secretary Birds again to say nothing of Cheetah. The terrain looked ideal!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What a difference a day makes though. There was nothing there at all! We got as far as the first waterhole and stopped for a chat with a driver who was parked up there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Seen anything?" I questioned. "Not on this road but if you head back the way you have come there are Lion at the Nshawu waterhole, they should be on a kill by 5.00pm" </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Many cars there?" I asked. "A few, but there's loads of space in the viewing area" came back the reply.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"It's not my scene being in a Lion jam " I declared but thanked him and moved on a few metres and parked up to look at the waterhole which was currently empty.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I checked the map whilst sat there and realised it was quicker to turn back and go past the Lion waterhole than to carry on so a decision was made!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lions it would be. I told the chap in the other car I'd exercised my right to change my mind, we laughed and he wished us luck.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By the time we arrived at the waterhole it must have been around 2.30pm. There were about 6 or eight cars parked in an area that could clearly accommodate several more. Not too bad at all. I stayed at the back of the parking area, some 25-30m back from the vehicles that were closer to the waterhole. I decided that the higher vantage point would be better than halving the distance to the water which in actual fact you couldn't see anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I got chatting to a 4x4 full of young South Africans who had just completed a 3 day walking safari in KNP. They told me they had been there for two hours already and other than an occasional glimpse of a Lion nothing had as yet happened.They thought there were three there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Did we want to sit there for an age waiting to see what might or might not happen? I offered to take Claire back to camp and she decided that was what she wanted to do. It was hours since we'd seen the Badger and not much else so understandably she was getting a bit fed up. We'd been having similar experiences for days now it seemed!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I reversed the car and wishing the youngsters in the 4x4 good luck told them I was going but would return alone later. That pause before leaving was well timed as otherwise we would have missed the Lion who made a brief appearance before lying down hidden in the grass again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027707233/in/dateposted/" title="Lion"><img alt="Lion" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027707233_ba86b63c24_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I returned to camp, had a cup of coffee then returned on my own to see if anything had developed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It hadn't. The youngsters had given up though and left. There were still a few cars there but I had the choice of position I wanted. I kept to the higher vantage point and a grandstand view.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was nearly 4.00pm. Not too much in the way of Lion sighting, in fact none at all. I didn't even know if they were still there. An arriving car had heard the news and asked me the question but I was no wiser than they were.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ahead of me was the waterhole, currently occupied by Elephant who once again were zealously guarding the water from every other species.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028447302/in/dateposted/" title="Wildebeest"><img alt="Wildebeest" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028447302_960e7faa65_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were Wildebeest in front of us, surely the Lion would have been interested had they been there? To my far right, beyond the Lion a herd of Impala were grazing , would they be victims of an attack?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I settled down to wait and see.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">After 45 minutes, and nearing 5.00pm there was suddenly activity in the distance, way beyond the waterhole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Buffalo approaching!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A huge herd of many hundreds.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To fully appreciate what I was looking at you really need to double click the next image to see the video.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028074551/in/dateposted/" title="Buffalo approach!"><img alt="Buffalo approach!" height="450" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49028074551_b3bca4dc66_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was an awe inspiring sight.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The young elephant responsible for guarding the water supply and chasing off intruders thought better of it. After an initial thought of defending the water it was realised it was not a good idea!! With these numbers of Buffalo the Elephants decided not to intervene at all.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lion on the other hand were immediately alert.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028228476/in/dateposted/" title="Wake up to dinner?"><img alt="Wake up to dinner?" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028228476_2495757792_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To my surprise there were eight, possibly nine of them hidden in the grass.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What happened next was quite truly amazing to watch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028438387/in/dateposted/" title="Build up"><img alt="Build up" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028438387_a19440a5d0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">First one Lion left the group and head towards the waterhole, hidden from the Buffalo by the bank in from of it. It walked to a position directly in front of me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028224581/in/dateposted/" title="Build up"><img alt="Build up" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028224581_61d9451ee9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Two more followed suit and followed the first one, stopping were it had taken up position. It was if the first Lion was in charge, ordering them to stay there while she continued a bit further to the left before lying down hidden in the long grass.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028226686/in/dateposted/" title="Build up"><img alt="Build up" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028226686_bdd81ec437_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The remaining two watched until she had taken up her position before they too moved forward.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028223686/in/dateposted/" title="Build up"><img alt="Build up" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028223686_441656ef0c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From my position I could see the battle plan coming in to shape. It was like being a general looking down on the battlefield below. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In front the waterhole</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To my left, and on the edge of the waterhole, one Lion.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Center stage and again hidden. Two more Lion.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To my right the remaining pride, between six or seven of them.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The buffalo were by now down in the water drinking. Many had already started to move off to the left of the field allowing others to take their place.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That had to be the plan. Wait until the last few stragglers are drinking then spring the trap. The Lion on the left would undoubtedly start the attack trying to steer the buffalo away from the main herd, the two in the middle would join in, the Buffalo would panic and run off to the right and the trap would be complete.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By now a few more cars had arrived, there was silence though. Everyone alert to what might happen at any moment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The wait went on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The tension was palpable . </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were a lot of Buffalo that wanted to drink!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Over on the left a couple of Elephant had started messing about.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027713518/in/dateposted/" title="Elephant tussle"><img alt="Elephant tussle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027713518_89e67ce6df_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This mock fight was getting closer to the left hand side of the waterhole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49028436147/in/dateposted/" title="Elephant tussle"><img alt="Elephant tussle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49028436147_98927dec2c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The leaving Buffalo looked on in bemusement as they left.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They didn't realise it I don't suppose but the Elephants possibly saved their day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lion on the left couldn't move in to the position it wanted while the Elephant were there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By now nearly all the Buffalo had had their fill, the last few moved on in a tight group.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was over.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lions retreated.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49027716978/in/dateposted/" title="Mission abandoned"><img alt="Mission abandoned" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027716978_8a5ff954eb_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So did all the onlookers. The camp gates would shut in 20 minutes, there was only just time to get back!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What would have happened had the attack gone ahead ? Would we have had to leave before it was over? I'll never know now!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My only disappointment wasn't not seeing the hunt completed but that Claire had missed seeing what I had.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was truly in awe of what I had witnessed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The plan, the apparent communication. This was something I hadn't expected.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If animals are this intelligent what are we doing abusing them the way we do?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">These carnivores had actually got me thinking whether I should be eating meat!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A later discussion revealed that there are plants that react when eaten by herbivores, somehow they pass on a warning to their neighbours who then secrete a substance that makes the leaves unpalatable.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Intelligent vegetables.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I give in, I'll carry on as I have always done. Survival of the fittest and all that.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-52230593195718745702019-11-06T15:50:00.001+00:002019-11-07T11:14:59.314+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 A right fright ...well quite!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">For our second day at Mopani we decided to head south back to Letaba but not before I'd been to check out the path for birds. It was another dull, slightly cold and windy day. Hardly a bird in sight first thing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just a Black-crowned Tchagra serenading us out side our door.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023481506/in/dateposted/" title="Brlack-crowned Tchagra"><img alt="Brlack-crowned Tchagra" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023481506_bac0c4b7f8_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Even the Spurfowl had disappeared! However, that might have been because there were Mongoose around too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023480921/in/dateposted/" title="Dwarf mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf mongoose" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023480921_4fb9d1eb4e_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had an early drive to check out the Pioneer Dam hide which had just one bird flying around in front of it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023476826/in/dateposted/" title="Black Saw-wing"><img alt="Black Saw-wing" height="534" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023476826_91c1e6b7ac_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The photo isn't the best but it gives an idea of species.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023678097/in/photostream/" title="Black Saw-wing"><img alt="Black Saw-wing" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023678097_eb857d8b12_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm thinking Black Saw-wing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was another, apparently keen, birder in the hide and he didn't know what it was either. perhaps you do?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, I had an interesting chat with him during the course of which he told me his daughter is an executive with a well known travel tour company. She, he said, was totally disparaging of SANParks accommodation saying it was inferior to her standards. She, he said, would only stay in 6* places!! No doubt she gets a big discount if she pays at all I guess. Her father however was quite happy staying in the camps and said his daughter's real dislike of SANParks was probably more to the fact that they make couldn't money out of them as it's easy for people to book directly themselves!! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, back in camp Claire was now ready for off and indeed, off we went. H1-4 tar road until we decided to take the S48 gravel road, the Tsendze loop.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not a thing!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back on the tar south again we looked forward to a cup of coffee at Letaba, I'd been so impressed with the one we'd had the other day. We intended risking breakfast there too but on arrival we discovered they were in the middle of a power cut. No coffee, no toasties. That was a blow!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Unimpressed by the roads just south of Letaba on our last trip, this time we decided to check out the S62 to the north but first a quick peep at the Hyena den to see if they were out to play.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nothing!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The S62 has two side roads off it before you go right to the end and the Engelhard Lookout.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The first one took us to the Matambeni hide. The wind blowing straight at us was so cold and so strong we didn't stick it for more than a minute before retreating back to the car.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Next up was the side road to Engelhard dam.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were some Impala there, some had Oxpeckers on them so I decided to have a play.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023681462/in/dateposted/" title="Impala"><img alt="Impala" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023681462_73afba0006_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Up to this point I had hardly taken a single shot all day !!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023687867/in/photostream/" title="Impala"><img alt="Impala" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023687867_e380cb4148_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The front cover of the current Kruger Magazine had a picture on similar lines although much better than mine. I was just trying to imitate it for something to do.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023688467/in/dateposted/" title="Red-billed Oxpecker Impala"><img alt="Red-billed Oxpecker Impala" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023688467_330bb15170_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We photographers get withdrawal symptoms if we don't get a hit on the shutter button now and again!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I settled for just a shot of the Oxpecker. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023474931/in/dateposted/" title="Red-billed Oxpecker"><img alt="Red-billed Oxpecker" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023474931_23a50afdab_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Kruger Magazine has a free to enter photo competition with some fabulous prizes and I thought I'd enter. Not with those though!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Onwards we went. Next up a Lilac-breasted Roller.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023678562/in/dateposted/" title="Lilac-breasted Roller"><img alt="Lilac-breasted Roller" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023678562_9e4fd8b261_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">More often than not they fly away when you stop to take a shot, we were already parked when this one landed. I thought it looked quite brilliant despite the poor light, even the background suited. Shame about the perched position!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was a bit despondent really. Another poor day on the cards. It was so windy I asked Claire was it worth going to the Lookout which no doubt would be more exposed than anywhere.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Might as well now we are here" was her reply.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So I turned right on gravel instead of heading towards the tar again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You immediately go down a dip and cross over the river bed on a raised but solid concrete roadway. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's only wide enough for one car and our progress was blocked by one that was parked there. They were busy taking photographs of a Giraffe.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We waited patiently until the Giraffe appeared to have had enough and quickly moved away.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The car in front moved on and so did we.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As we crossed a glance to my right had be totally excited.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The car in front had missed it at first but presumably seen it the minute I stopped. They stopped too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Right next to where they had been parked.... a Lioness!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have never been that close to a Lion before, it was a really thrilling moment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I braked instantly, pressed the window button to wind down both front and rear windows, turned the engine off and started clicking away</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022955513/in/dateposted/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022955513_c3a4796a34_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was magical!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023472721/in/dateposted/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023472721_784f2a3fa9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Amazing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022953388/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022953388_4e45c3354b_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The big beast was up and walking</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023477221/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023477221_42cf3a10ae_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Towards me!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023684112/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023684112_a3b0c32bf2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It all happened in what seemed like seconds.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023704447/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023704447_7801fd6a7f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Faster than my brain responds anyway!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This huge killing machine was within just a few feet of me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">PANIC!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Was I being sized up for dinner?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Hit the window button.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">NOTHING!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">HELP!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Calm Dave, turn the ignition on, the window will close.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">PHEW!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My heart returned to normal as the Lioness carried on walking below the car. It was only later when I looked at the photos I realised I wasn't the target at all.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023683707/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023683707_9a93bf5467_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">She'd seen a Zebra appear further down the river bed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Were we going to witness an ambush?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023685097/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023685097_d8bd6da366_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I managed to reverse the car back a bit.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023689757/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023689757_44538d5ef6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and wound down the nearside back window to give a photo opportunity through there should it be necessary.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022961548/in/photostream/" title="BH2I5986"><img alt="BH2I5986" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022961548_8abc5e741d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lioness went in to stalking mode.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023483741/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023483741_19b961f9d6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Zebra seemed aware that all was not right and started to wander off further down the river bed then up the bank disappearing in to the bushes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023696502/in/photostream/" title="Lioness"><img alt="Lioness" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023696502_6e8ab43175_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Lioness followed...................</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">and that was that I'm afraid.Sorry for the anti climax but you can't have everything!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We returned to camp after driving up to the Lookout which was ,as we expected, too cold to get out of the car. Besides, there was a Lioness about!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It goes to show though, your day can turn in to something special when you least expect it to and that makes it all the more special.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That evening even the local waterhole was deserted. Seems most creatures don't like the wind too much either.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Unbelievably one had wandered in to our camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'd seen Mongoose, Warthogs, Bushbucks Squirrels, Monkey and Genet in the camps on our travels but this was ridiculous!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How did this get in unnoticed through the camp gates and past the fuel station, Reception and all the other chalets before reaching us?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022960723/in/dateposted/" title="Surprise visitor"><img alt="Surprise visitor" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022960723_1d1d28784b_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I mean it's not exactly tiny is it?!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49024529167/in/dateposted/" title="Greater Kudu"><img alt="Greater Kudu" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49024529167_460df5f6bd_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">When he stands up the tip of those Antlers are nearly 3m off the ground.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Good job he was totally uninterested in us, just got on with trimming the hedges around the chalet oblivious to the fact I was stood right next to it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This wasn't the only visitor we had either.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-43872530178882406142019-11-06T10:24:00.000+00:002019-11-06T10:26:09.818+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Mopani and the Tropic of Capricorn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Mopani couldn't have been a better choice to follow up on Shimuwini, it was probably our favourite "main" camp. It's perfectly placed for exploring the surrounding area and the layout is such that it has a very private feel too. I had booked us in to one of the best view chalets in the camp and although it was just along from the shop and restaurant which was very convenient it was still very quiet indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was the view from our patio/covered dining area.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49020038677/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020038677_1c1bb97312_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The kitchen had everything you might need.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019839271/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019839271_be59919c7e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Well, not quite but I'll tell you about that later!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was one main bedroom</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019834261/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019834261_8f0b26c2aa_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and a rather tiny one with a bunk bed in it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019314658/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019314658_99c5dc6b9e_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That soon became a storage room, the beds storage perfect for my electrical gear!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019314003/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019314003_7bc978b236_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The bathroom was adequate, basically we were very happy!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019312523/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019312523_71e897c76d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The camp overlooks Pioneer Dam, there is plenty going on down there but you need a pair of binoculars to take advantage really.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What I really liked was that there is a decent footpath that takes you down along part of the lake below.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">First thing in the morning on our first day I was down there to see what I could find and it was the most productive camp of all in terms of birds.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Southern Masked Weaver</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019226688/in/dateposted/" title="Southern Masked Weaver"><img alt="Southern Masked Weaver" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019226688_56d1ab3a07_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Little Bee-eater</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019248963/in/photostream/" title="Little Bee-eater"><img alt="Little Bee-eater" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019248963_20d3ff50aa_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">White-browed Scrub Robin</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019246393/in/photostream/" title="White-browed Scrub Robin"><img alt="White-browed Scrub Robin" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019246393_863a2dc6e9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Marabou Stork</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019966812/in/photostream/" title="Marabou Stork"><img alt="Marabou Stork" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019966812_2b7e6efaa1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Black-bellied Starling</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019234268/in/photostream/" title="Black-bellied Starling"><img alt="Black-bellied Starling" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019234268_514a3b0d46_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was flying!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was the only camp were I could get really close to the water's edge and be at a decent level even if it meant having an electric fence in front of me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019244673/in/photostream/" title="Wood Sandpiper"><img alt="Wood Sandpiper" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019244673_a67be0caee_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Up around our chalet we did have the usual early morning alarm call of the Natal Spurfowl</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019250673/in/photostream/" title="Natal Spurfowl"><img alt="Natal Spurfowl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019250673_d660b6bfdb_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">along with the more tuneful, well in comparison anyway, Chinspot Batis</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019752351/in/dateposted/" title="Chinspot Batis"><img alt="Chinspot Batis" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019752351_584602b4c7_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had 4 nights booked here and I knew I was going to be happy. Our first day started dull and overcast, slightly chilly in the wind off the dam in fact but as far as I was concerned it was a bonus. When it's dull the animals stay out longer!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Off we went again, first stop check out the small lake in front of the Shipandani Hide.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019765831/in/dateposted/" title="Hippos"><img alt="Hippos" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019765831_b0aac9bb93_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Hippo were closer but didn't look likely to provide much in the way of action shots.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We headed back to the H1-6 tar. The next sighting brought traffic to a standstill.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Well all two of us. We both parked across the road to make sure that this little chap made it to the other side.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019753181/in/dateposted/" title="Chameleon"><img alt="Chameleon" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019753181_0699a4b085_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was all action but at a very slow pace. If you have never seen a Chameleon move they are quite weird. Every stride is hesitant but deliberate.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can try this link to see for yourselves. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022445478/in/dateposted/" title="Chameleon on the move"><img alt="Chameleon on the move" height="450" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49022445478_be83fe5b28_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They are probably more common than you realise, we only saw the one, but of course they are well camouflaged. This one had the sense to keep his bush colours on whilst crossing the road rather than blending in with the tar!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once the Chameleon was safely across the road we moved on only to stop again not too further along to offer similar protection!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023158817/in/dateposted/" title="Leopard Tortoise"><img alt="Leopard Tortoise" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023158817_983e6ae113_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We turned off the road to explore again a similar path to the one the day before. The good thing about Mopani Camp is there are quite a few waterholes within a relatively short distance. During drought conditions they are of course well populated!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Nshawu No 2 was to become a firm favourite. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We saw our only Reedbuck there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019227093/in/dateposted/" title="Southern Reedbuck"><img alt="Southern Reedbuck" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019227093_d015c96be4_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There was always something to photograph.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019230613/in/dateposted/" title="Red-billed Oxpecker Impala"><img alt="Red-billed Oxpecker Impala" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019230613_bbf7c9f1c5_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were a few Ostrich in the area too, not that common in KNP from our experience.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019231443/in/dateposted/" title="Ostrich"><img alt="Ostrich" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019231443_71d8ff727f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, the special sighting will be revealed later in my report so you'll have to stay tuned!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We, for the time being, headed north then took the S143, also known as the Tropic of Capricorn Rd..for obvious reasons. It was however also a reminder that our journey through KNP had taken us further south from the Equator than we had ever travelled before.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The weather was starting to get brighter, and with it deteriorating conditions for photography which was a shame because once again heat haze proved problematic for my third and last sighting of Secretary Bird.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019950177/in/dateposted/" title="Secretary Bird 2"><img alt="Secretary Bird 2" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019950177_b08760a1b8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In truth I guess the grass was an equally big problem!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019255918/in/dateposted/" title="7M3A6205"><img alt="7M3A6205" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019255918_89cd187d7d_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can see how after it has rained the whole scene would change. Views through the Mopani bush impossible, the grass green and dense.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019760976/in/dateposted/" title="7M3A6207"><img alt="7M3A6207" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019760976_fbabb491fb_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Maybe by good fortune we had chosen the right time to visit?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Maybe!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The S143 was particularly good for birds that day too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019755326/in/dateposted/" title="Kittliz's Plover"><img alt="Kittliz's Plover" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019755326_a188fbc2c0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A family of 3 Kittlitz's Plover the only ones I have ever seen I think.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019962317/in/dateposted/" title="Kittliz's Plover"><img alt="Kittliz's Plover" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019962317_5f108565f6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A bush full of Red-head Finch</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019959782/in/dateposted/" title="Red-headed Finch"><img alt="Red-headed Finch" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019959782_37b38f1d15_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Quite a few Namaqua Dove too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019759591/in/dateposted/" title="Namaqua Dove"><img alt="Namaqua Dove" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019759591_192221ab98_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and lots of Sparrow-Lark that favour these dry arid conditions it seems.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019753406/in/dateposted/" title="Chestnut-backed Sparrow-weaver"><img alt="Chestnut-backed Sparrow-weaver" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019753406_14e8869b34_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We stopped off for the obligatory Tropic of Capricorn marker shots before returning to camp. I caught up with some post processing, but of course couldn't resist going out again for the evening session!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A stop at the Shipandani hide proved it's not good at this time of day, neither did it look too promising as an overnight stop in the hide either. It's one of two in the park that you can book and they don't come cheap either. personally I wouldn't bother.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, it's only 5 minutes up the road to Bowkerskop waterhole so perfect to catch the last of the sun, and it turned out that way too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were lots of Elephants at the waterhole.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023159667/in/dateposted/" title="Forming the circle"><img alt="Forming the circle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023159667_82636ae4e3_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They jealously guard it too whilst they are there, a juvenile seems to have the responsibility of chasing all other species away.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Even a Kori Bustard was seen as a threat to supplies and wasn't allowed near.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022430098/in/dateposted/" title="Forming the circle"><img alt="Forming the circle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022430098_ceb2800ed8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's amusing to watch the youngsters as they approach, they get really excited and break in to a run.<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019981907/in/dateposted/" title="7M3A6350"><img alt="7M3A6350" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019981907_bf2c67a368_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">They are made welcome of course and protected by the herd.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019758721/in/photostream/" title="Thirsty Elephant"><img alt="Thirsty Elephant" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019758721_912c31fe52_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Everything else has to wait until they have had their fill and left.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The evening light was glorious though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019784376/in/dateposted/" title="Tsessebe"><img alt="Tsessebe" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019784376_618b3c87f5_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a pleasure to sit and watch the comings and goings.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49019957657/in/dateposted/" title="Black-backed Jackal"><img alt="Black-backed Jackal" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49019957657_5629f2eb23_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Kori Bustard came over to investigate the few watching cars.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023158107/in/dateposted/" title="Kori Bustard"><img alt="Kori Bustard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023158107_2a1e22c628_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With the gates to camp due to shut soon I had to leave, it's amazing how quickly the light vanishes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49020032367/in/dateposted/" title="Mopani Rest Camp"><img alt="Mopani Rest Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020032367_a3a5e30b82_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">From the waterhole in full light I arrived back at our chalet about 15 minutes later just in time to see the sun disappear for the day.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">time for a beer of course, and light the Braii!i</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our day wasn't quite over yet though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To our delight we had a visitor!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49023157272/in/dateposted/" title="Genet"><img alt="Genet" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49023157272_403f42da8e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another Genet! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At first it stayed a bit distant..all of 10m perhaps but when I retreated from the Braii to the table to eat, the Genet got bolder.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49022430598/in/dateposted/" title="Genet"><img alt="Genet" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49022430598_ef6c0000a4_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again I didn't use flash but instead lay on the ground and using something for support set my camera to ISO1600 and a shutter speed of 1/6th sec. The f2.8 lens allows more light in and although there must have been a certain amount of camera shake from an inebriated photographer, they came out OK !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No, Mopani was OK and I soon got over leaving Shimuwini!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC.</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-42003760451089371282019-11-05T12:57:00.000+00:002019-11-05T12:58:39.359+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 The road to Mopani Rest Camp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">I was quite sad to be leaving Shimuwini, on balance it was probably the best camp we had stayed in so far. It has it's disadvantages in as much as it's out on a limb but on the other hand you can be out of the park and stocking up in the shops in 90 minutes too. There are not too many camps you can say that about.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another disadvantage we found was the shortage of kitchen equipment, and we were not alone it seemed. The SanPark web site states that there isn't an electric supply but in actual fact there is. They have now installed fridge freezers in every unit so you no longer have to rely on the communal deep freezers, if indeed they are still operational. You can disconnect the fridge /freezer for a while to recharge your batteries but not for too long of course. A power bank of sockets is an extremely useful bit of kit. A dual socket converter would solve that problem with ease and they sell them in the park shops too we later discovered. Our unit should have had the basics though, we didn't report it as we had our own anyway but there wasn't a can or bottle opener, and a new breadboard only appeared on the day we left. What was more of a concern would be the pathetic gas hobs we had in our unit. One small one, no tiny one, and one standard size one that didn't give off much heat. We had to resort to putting the casserole dish in the coals of the Braii again to get the water to boil. We had no electric kettle, microwave or toaster. None of these mattered to us because we had our braii but I would wonder what it would be like if it was raining for a prolonged period? The bigger units had a proper oven, shame the smaller ones don't.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Talking of rain I also wondered what it would be like when the water level of the rivers started to rise too. Not just here but through out the park. In exceptional times the water at Shimuwini has risen above the ground level of all the chalets, flooding them all, but that is the exception.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What would be interesting in a normal summer would be to see the level of the water as viewed from the bird hide. When the water is low the Hippos remain quite distant, they have little choice if they want to stay in a reasonable depth of water.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012918843/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo pool"><img alt="Hippo pool" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012918843_1e9c429f79_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Imagine what it would be like if they were nearly on a level with you and much closer!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017915382/in/dateposted/" title="Hippopotomus roar"><img alt="Hippopotomus roar" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017915382_ee3a60497a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There would be some cracking photo opportunities.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017191833/in/dateposted/" title="Hippopotomus roar"><img alt="Hippopotomus roar" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017191833_8a8cf35482_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have already mentioned that Shimuwini had a more social aspect too. The layout is such that it's easy to communicate with your neighbours without intruding on their space. Usually whilst using your Braii! I think the fact we'd stayed for four nights also gave you a feeling of putting your roots down for a while. I might have been obsessed by finding the Leopard but there was plenty of other wildlife on the private road. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A large herd of Buffalo passed through over 2 days and a good number of Elephants were always a present, as were Impala, Waterbuck, and as seen by others, Leopard!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Did I try again? Silly you would doubt me!! Of course I did but only after trying for the Night Herons again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This time though they landed on a more distant rock.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017909126/in/dateposted/" title="White-backed Night Heron"><img alt="White-backed Night Heron" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017909126_6ca6bd49f1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">but they stayed put for a little longer than on the previous day. It was getting lighter still before they flew in to cover.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017393803/in/dateposted/" title="White-backed Night Heron"><img alt="White-backed Night Heron" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017393803_5e7ef62454_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I would bet they will build a nest there as they appeared to perform a little courtship ritual which was nice to see.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, I took to the gravel road again after they disappeared and although I failed on the Leopard I was surprised to see a Hyena wander down towards me!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017388413/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017388413_733f7abc3a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It appeared to be in a world of it's own stopping only when something caught it's attention.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017909981/in/photostream/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017909981_6b2f80f44a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">After a brief pause it carried on, seemingly in a world of it's own!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017404053/in/dateposted/" title="Spotted Hyena"><img alt="Spotted Hyena" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017404053_811c214baf_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had to change camera and lenses as it got nearer and nearer. Then I thought better of the situation, it was going to almost brush past the car so I hurriedly withdrew the lens and wound up the window a bit. I have no idea how a Hyena would react but they are pretty big and have a row of teeth to match.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Better safe than sorry! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I have to admit I should have wound up the window fully. They also stink!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Interestingly this was the only camp that wasn't offering any game drives and perhaps the answer was that they were in the process of installing a new camp manager. It was nice to meet her on my last morning when I went in to the hide when she was checking it out too. A delightful and very knowledgable young lady, I think she'll be a huge success and push Shimuwini on to even better things.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back at our chalet Claire was getting ready to move. Mopani here we come!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It wasn't far so we took a diversion again en route checking out the Tsendze loop and Shipandani hide. It was notable how many Elephants were around the loop, enough to make you feel uncomfortable to be honest. You could easily find yourself trapped. Nice to see another Nyala though.</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017911171/in/dateposted/" title="Nyala male"><img alt="Nyala male" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017911171_288a1f960c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd soon discover the further north the more common they become.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Shipandani Hide on the other hand was very disappointing with nothing much to see at all. There's a nice ford you cross the end of the small lake just before you get there and there were some Hippos in the water so there were possibilities of something good to photograph but not just at that moment. I made a mental note to return.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Instead we took the S49 and S50 routes to check out those two gravel roads. There was certainly a lot of open space.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49018123777/in/dateposted/" title="Dust bowl"><img alt="Dust bowl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49018123777_a047662123_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was very dry and very dusty.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017919216/in/dateposted/" title="Water tank"><img alt="Water tank" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017919216_18ded567f4_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Elephants were gathered around the water tank.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49018120462/in/dateposted/" title="Mud bath"><img alt="Mud bath" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49018120462_fcc289b3f6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not everything can make use of them though so alternative sources are need. Judging by the surrounding dried up mud, water was disappearing fast.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the heat of the day, there was little shade on offer.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49018121772/in/dateposted/" title="Shade!"><img alt="Shade!" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49018121772_129cde7753_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sometimes it was offered by an adult to a child. Otherwise it was do the best you can.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49017395343/in/dateposted/" title="Tessebe"><img alt="Tessebe" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49017395343_b05f14e99e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Today's new animal was to be Tsessebe. Again, the further north the more we were to find them but for now it was another "lifer".</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I think I was going to enjoy the surrounding area but for now it was time to check in to our new camp and get the stores refrigerated as soon as possible.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-21938034524188196202019-11-04T20:51:00.001+00:002019-11-04T20:52:26.884+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 If at first....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Having been told the White-backed Night Heron had arrived at 5.15 the previous day, I decided I'd get there even earlier. First in the hide, I was soon joined by the lady from Cape Town and one other.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was still almost total darkness when the two birds flew in, landing on the small bit of beach below us.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To get an image that actually makes it look lot lighter than it actually was took a wide open lens. I had my 500mm for the extra reach at f4. A shutter speed of 1/80th was as slow as I dared go.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014867407/in/dateposted/" title="White-backed Night Heron Shimuwini"><img alt="White-backed Night Heron Shimuwini" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014867407_bf78c3142c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can see why in the motion blur of the birds foot.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014137893/in/photostream/" title="White-backed Night Heron"><img alt="White-backed Night Heron" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014137893_291c7968da_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Then I'd selected auto-iso. I hadn't a clue how it would turn out but considering it's ISO 25,600 it ain't too bad! A lot of folk would simply not venture in to that territory but what's the alternative? Ok, it's not a prize winning shot but at least I have a record!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was pleased with the result , it had been worth getting up an extra 15 minutes early.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The sun had only just began to light up the sky and it was a while before it even made an appearance.<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014655971/in/dateposted/" title="First Light. Kruger National park"><img alt="First Light. Kruger National park" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014655971_97a81dfcdf_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It's a cracking time of day to be up if you make the effort though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I went off in search of the Leopard again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Don't ask!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't stay out too long, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I think I was a bit disillusioned by now. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I felt things were slipping away.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh well, the cleaners had already moved in to next door and left the bin bags they had removed from the bins to be collected by the chap who came around in his little truck.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That seemed like a bad idea and it surprised me they had done so because the minute they walked away the bin bags were attacked by a crowd of different creatures. Hornbills,Squirrels,Starlings and to my delight..Dwarf Mongoose.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014657881/in/dateposted/" title="Dwarf Mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf Mongoose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014657881_893c80d2f3_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">At first I only spotted the one but there were lots more too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014857562/in/photostream/" title="Dwarf Mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf Mongoose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014857562_61936b0f0e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We hadn't realised but their burrow was just behind our chalet.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014129998/in/photostream/" title="Dwarf Mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf Mongoose" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014129998_9a87dfa3dd_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That cheered me up although I did remind myself why had the receptionist denied any wildlife was in camp. They must have known they were there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, Claire was ready to go shopping in Phalaborwa so off we went. I promised her that I wouldn't take an hour to get to the tar road as had been the case on the first day. I drove straight there by the quickest route. I did however tell her that I had found a really pretty little spot down by the river so I was going to do a quick diversion down this loop road to show her.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There were two cars already parked down there, some 25m apart. As we edged slowly past the first one I said hello to the driver through our open window. I just got a nod back. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As I approached the second one I spotted the driver gesticulating to stop and pointing at a bush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">WOW! I hadn't seen it, and had he not pointed, I might have driven right past.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014132973/in/dateposted/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014132973_3ffc73ccb0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">There he was, a magnificent Leopard, some 20 metres away and well camouflaged hidden behind the bush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a truly magnificent moment after all the frustration in previous searches.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014872047/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014872047_e444513421_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Leopard had been asleep it seemed but now decided to wake up. I hadn't a clue which way it would go and was delighted when he peered around the bush directly at me!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Next minute he was on the move.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014670286/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014670286_d4f099f30c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not only on the move but coming right past me!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014138543/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014138543_5eb10874fe_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Something had caught his eye.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014863672/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014863672_ee401b5519_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It might be 10.30am </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014141668/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014141668_9003287121_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">but this supposedly nocturnal beast was in the mood to hunt!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014869067/in/dateposted/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014869067_4bbde869f7_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">For a moment he had been so so close.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014667236/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014667236_ac9c74a168_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Using bushes for cover he moved in to position.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">So did I! I hurriedly turned the car around to favce the other way before the now other cars that had joined the sighting could block me off. I drew alongside the first car we'd passed who had also turned around. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014865002/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014865002_22ec485896_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">He'd spotted some Impala on the other side of the river and he was hoping they'd cross.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49014661046/in/photostream/" title="Leopard"><img alt="Leopard" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014661046_6876c986d2_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were parked watching for some time. Would the Leopard make a kill?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was sat on the wrong side of the vehicle now so it was a strain to lean across in to the passenger window to take some shots. Claire was taking a video on her iPad but the car next to us had the engine running and was making a nose as well as letting us inhale the fumes. I asked him if he could turn the engine off but he explained that he couldn't as he wouldn't be able to start it up again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh well. We would just have to stick it out. Not for long as it happened because the Leopard must have decided it was time to call it a day, got up and retreated in to some bushes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We'd seen enough so left to let someone else have our prime position.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We departed the scene ecstatic but wondering why the first car hadn't told us there was a Leopard up ahead in the first place.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Most odd, but on our way out I was able to thank the guy in the car who had given us the nod.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Shopping completed, we headed back to camp victorious.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Didn't really matter what else would happen that day although believe it or not. I did go and take another look for the local one.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and of course failed to find it!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC.</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-68609772080415651172019-11-04T16:58:00.002+00:002019-11-04T20:02:19.425+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 A mad dash!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">For the second morning I was up and awake at the crack of dawn. I made myself a cup of coffee in the outdoor kitchen, useful to avoid waking up Claire.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Suddenly there was a loud bang.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That sounded like a gunshot.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A few minutes later another one.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My spine tingled with apprehension. Please not poachers.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wandered over to the bird hide with my mug. I wasn't the first one in either, a lady from Cape Town had beaten me to it and she was quite excited at what she'd seen. She showed me the photo she'd taken and sure enough, although it was almost dark, the white plumage confirmed it was a White-backed Night Heron. A very nice bird to see indeed and largely nocturnal. I certainly didn't expect to see one here although the No 1 bird on my target list was, according to the SANParks website, one I might do. When you saw how low the river was that wasn't very likely indeed. Pel's Fishing Owl would have to wait but this was indeed a bird worth getting up a bit earlier for tomorrow!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I mentioned the gunshot and she confirmed she'd heard them too, she'd also seen three Rangers armed with a gun heading off earlier too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I returned to our chalet when it was a lot lighter, Claire was awake, up and ready to go on the early morning patrol slowly driving the loop looking for that Leopard again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Once again we drew blank, well on Leopard ,but at least I has a new addition for my bird list. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012927858/in/dateposted/" title="Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi"><img alt="Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012927858_08a6c1669f_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We also found a pair of Klipspringer which surprised me before returning to camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012917098/in/dateposted/" title="Klipspringer"><img alt="Klipspringer" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012917098_aca641e944_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was still wanting that Leopard though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wandered across the grassy lawn back towards the bird hide and took a few bird snaps on the way.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Blue Waxbill</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013661032/in/dateposted/" title="Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis"><img alt="Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013661032_c68e88c158_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and the Crombec</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013660707/in/photostream/" title="Long-billed Crombec"><img alt="Long-billed Crombec" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013660707_a571bec4cd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">both seen regularly so not too exciting.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Inside the hide was quite busy, maybe half a dozen people but there was enough space for all. The chap in the corner was looking through the shots he'd taken on his early drive around the loop. He'd seen a Leopard. The photo was fabulous and that just increased my frustration at not finding it!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We had some action in front of us, the Brown-headed Kingfisher had caught a Dragonfly.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013453856/in/dateposted/" title="Brown-hooded Kingfisher"><img alt="Brown-hooded Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013453856_1614bd93ba_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Having battered it in to submission it was ready to try to swallow it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012924823/in/photostream/" title="Brown-hooded Kingfisher"><img alt="Brown-hooded Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012924823_1e568ffcd8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012925183/in/photostream/" title="Brown-hooded Kingfisher"><img alt="Brown-hooded Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012925183_94b476c1df_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It looked rather comical in the end, as if it had two ears!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013452726/in/photostream/" title="Brown-hooded Kingfisher"><img alt="Brown-hooded Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013452726_0674e50be1_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Our next door neighbour arrived in the hide declaring that he'd just come back from driving the tar road and he'd had fabulous sightings including a Leopard. He said it was up a tree exactly 15.5kms from the end of our private gravel road. It was looking sleepy and he thought it would hang around there for some time.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">That was it, on a mad impulse I set off to find it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Did Claire want to come. She thought better of it and declined.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The gravel road is 11kms long, the speed limit 40kph max, and that's only when you can go that fast. The tar road was another 15.5m and that's a beautiful open road but, for the safety of the wildlife there's a speed limit of 50kph. A total of 26.5kms seemed to take an eternity sticking to the speed limit. I was pretty certain I'd found the correct tree but there was no Leopard to be seen. I knew it had been a silly idea really.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It got worse though, another car came along from the opposite direction and I asked them if they'd seen a Leopard. Yes, they'd seen one on a kill just off the road further back. Thanking them I set off to find it but stupidly hadn't asked how far as they'd said there were a couple of cars there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I drove on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">And on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Clocking up another 17 kms to the H9 without seeing a thing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Which way now? </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I assumed they must have come from the Orpen Gate, so off I went that way.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another 8 kms. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This was getting very silly indeed, I was now 90 minutes from camp!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Oh well. I had tried but that was the end of it. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The turn off to Sable Hide is at the junction of the H14, the road I'd come down on, so I might as well take a look.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was a huge open lake but other than a distant Giraffe that too was deserted. It was getting very hot by now. I felt a fool for making such a rash decision, the only saving grace was I got my best views and photo opportunity of a Brown Snake-eagle on the way back.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013658482/in/dateposted/" title="Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus"><img alt="Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013658482_dda424c578_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and not being in such a rush, I investigated two places of interest on the way.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The first had a massive tusker in the near dry river bed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013657967/in/dateposted/" title="Tusker"><img alt="Tusker" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013657967_9db1bd527e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I also noted the remains of a Buffalo on the edge of the tar road too but that was no Leopard kill and it was a day or two old as well.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A little further on there's an unmarked loop road which takes you right down to the river bank and a really pretty spot to boot. It was however empty.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back at base I explained to Claire the reason I'd been so long. I'd wasted time and fuel in to the bargain, the irony being that we'd decided to return to Phalaworba the following day anyway to stock up with a lot more provisions to enable us to carry on self catering rather than using the restaurants.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The only good news was an African Openbill had landed on rocks right in front of our chalet.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013655237/in/dateposted/" title="African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus"><img alt="African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013655237_5a68b78e8e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If I stood on the bench I could get a clear shot over the top of the electric fence too!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wasn't to know it wasn't working was I !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">In the distance I spotted a huge amount of Vulture activity. Something had disturbed them.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013445021/in/dateposted/" title="Vultures"><img alt="Vultures" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013445021_091d3c45ef_c.jpg" width="533" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Back in the hide I discovered that the gunshots I'd heard earlier was that of the Rangers. They'd taken the decision to shoot the rogue Elephant, and that was what the Vultures were feeding on.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sad but the only course of action when it was likely to come back to camp and cause more damage.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The slightly re assuring news was that someone else had set off to find the Leopard up the tree and they too had failed to see it. It was reassuring only in as much as I hadn't missed it by finding the wrong tree.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I consoled myself with some action shots of the Pied Kingfisher and it's huge catch.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49013653682/in/dateposted/" title="Pied Kingfisher"><img alt="Pied Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013653682_df9d3b5af0_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It still managed to swallow it. It's the equivalent of me swallowing a whole salmon!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As the sun cooled, once again, off I went in search of the local Leopard.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire sensibly declined to join me.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes, once again I failed to find it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span><br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-90129648213625426442019-11-04T12:21:00.001+00:002019-11-04T13:29:31.346+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Shimuwini Rest Camp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">Of all the camps we'd stayed in so far Shimuwini was the most isolated but that wasn't a problem, we'd stocked up with food and drink at the Spar in Phalaborwa and I was hoping to have some down time just hanging around the camp, maybe sitting in the hide or just watching from our chalet. I had no intention of driving beyond the length of our private approach road. It was also a time to catch up and review some of the photographs I'd taken so far. I thought Claire might like to unwrap her sunbed and take in a few rays, maybe we'd have a swim in the small swimming pool.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One thing certainly wasn't an issue. Waking up! No need for an alarm clock in KNP! In every place we'd stayed so far we had been woken to the sound of the Natal Spurfowl.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49011706063/in/dateposted/" title="Natal Spurfowl"><img alt="Natal Spurfowl" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011706063_a7f8a0c388_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Believe me they can make quite a racket! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Here in Shimuwini we had additional sounds and they went on all night.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012442482/in/dateposted/" title="Hippo"><img alt="Hippo" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012442482_3ab66fc0d8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Hippos seem to spend much of the day asleep and are active at night, this one was returning to deeper water first thing in the morning. That's not to say they are quiet during the day though, the silence of the bush is often punctuated by a Hippo altercation with one of it's own!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Anyway, on our first morning our neighbours asked had we been aware of the Elephant wandering around the camp! We hadn't but we were later told the elephant had visited the night before we arrived too, it had simply walked through the electrified fence, destroying a section in the process . The Elephant was showing signs of aggression too it seemed. One thing was certain though, it had enjoyed a swim in the pool, no wonder the bottom was covered in sand! Anyway, come dawn it had vanished, thankfully.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire came out in the car with me to check out our loop road. She spotted some Dwarf Mongoose which were backlit by the rising sun.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012245246/in/dateposted/" title="Dwarf Mongoose"><img alt="Dwarf Mongoose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012245246_5e3398d34e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We bumped in to our neighbours who asked 'Did you see the Leopard ?" </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">No we hadn't, despite driving around at 5-10 kph. I really wanted a Leopard now and it seemed there was an excellent possibility that tales of a local Leopard were true.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We drove on but found nothing of note.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012242036/in/dateposted/" title="Red-crested Kohraan"><img alt="Red-crested Kohraan" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012242036_c734207210_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yes, you soon forget the thrill of seeing something for the first time, even if just a few days have elapsed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49011712473/in/dateposted/" title="African Buffalo"><img alt="African Buffalo" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011712473_4a5cbd9b59_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">OK , maybe we got better views of the Fish Eagle than we'd had previously.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012445452/in/dateposted/" title="African Fish Eagle"><img alt="African Fish Eagle" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012445452_2818b1bd9c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Complacency is dangerous though. I spotted a pair of Natal Spurfowl wandering slowly across the road and just ignored them until I suddenly realised there not Spurfowl but Sandgrouse.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The first I'd seen too,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012236951/in/dateposted/" title="Double-banded Sandgrouse"><img alt="Double-banded Sandgrouse" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012236951_796b8e6e3c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Hopefully I'd get another opportunity because by the time I had realised what I was looking at the Sandgrouse were disappearing in to the bush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Another car approached from the opposite direction.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Anything about?" I asked.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Yes, we have just had a fabulous sighting of Leopard" came back the reply. Grrrr, I was so envious. Anyway, armed with instructions on where to find it off we went but alas our luck was out.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We returned to camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I spent the rest of the day in the camp taking stock of what was about.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49011706393/in/dateposted/" title="Brown-hooded kingfisher"><img alt="Brown-hooded kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011706393_197dfa55b6_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not too much of great interest it seemed to be honest.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012447077/in/dateposted/" title="Egyptian Goose"><img alt="Egyptian Goose" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012447077_fa9bf6bb0e_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Well nothing I hadn't seen elsewhere anyway.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49012237811/in/dateposted/" title="Pied Kingfisher"><img alt="Pied Kingfisher" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49012237811_84f0ff499a_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">You can always hope to get an action shot though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49011709068/in/dateposted/" title="White-fronted Bee-eater"><img alt="White-fronted Bee-eater" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011709068_2277739366_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">However, that wasn't to be.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I couldn't wait for the sun to start cooling down, I knew where I wanted to be.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Out looking for the Leopard!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire declined to join me, can't blame her, I spent another 90 minutes driving around at a snail's pace only to draw another blank.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ah well, always tomorrow!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I wasn't too disappointed, put in the hours and you will hopefully get the rewards.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">it was beer time again and time to light the Braii.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">One of the nice things about Shimuwini is that it seems such a sociable place.I think perhaps most folk who choose to stay there seem to do so just to stay put.It is out on a limb really, if you intend driving to places there are other camps that are better located, Shimuwini could be one of the worst perhaps, anyway I talked to quite a few of our neighbouring residents both outside their chalets and in the gathering place...the bird hide so it was nice to have a social aspect to the camp too. Most were quite content to just chill.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span><br />
<br /></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386437939744493091.post-11068850041420683932019-11-03T16:59:00.000+00:002019-11-03T17:01:07.460+00:00South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Shimuwini<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">It had been a pleasure staying in Olifants but I was really looking forward to Shimuwini Bushveld Camp. If it was as good as Talamati had been I would be more than happy. Olifants had been good for birds, not so many other creatures, a few nuisance Vervet Monkeys, some Dwarf Mongoose and the ever present Squirrels but one thing they did have were the thousands of bats that inhabit the buildings in camp. Maybe Shimuwini might have something better!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Affect taking a few photos of the Red-winged Starlings pecking at our Braii we were ready for off.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007246767/in/dateposted-public/" title="Red-winged Starling"><img alt="Red-winged Starling" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007246767_a95c932ccc_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We headed north again on the H8 and H1-5 road to Letaba Rest Camp, one we wouldn't be staying at. Once again we drew a blank seeing nothing of note until we came across a herd of Buffalo wandering across the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">It was something to look at anyway!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49006495663/in/dateposted-public/" title="Road block"><img alt="Road block" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49006495663_35d5e704d9_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were happy to let every last one of them clear the road before continuing on towards Letaba.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We decided to check out the top end of the S46 gravel road but it didn't change our luck much although I did get some decent views of a small flock of Golden-breasted Bunting. </span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007019476/in/dateposted-public/" title="Golden-breasted Bunting"><img alt="Golden-breasted Bunting" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007019476_7ce270fce3_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just before we arrived at the day visitor car park at Letaba I spotted something in the undergrowth. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Not the best of shots but something at least and a new addition for the trip. A Kurrichane Thrush.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007034326/in/dateposted-public/" title="Kurrichane Thrush"><img alt="Kurrichane Thrush" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007034326_5115cb25dd_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The day visitor area in Letaba is certainly a bit different. Totally apart from the main camp and much bigger than everywhere else, we had a walk around the tree lined pathways but there was nothing to see there either so we headed in to the camp to find the restaurant. Nicely appointed with a nice outlook too but despite the lack of many customers the service was so slow we got up and walked to the take away coffee bar instead. I have to say the coffee was outstanding, definitely, along with the one we sampled at Orpen Gate, head and shoulders better than everywhere else. I find it strange there is so much inconsistency when all these places are run by the same outfit! Unfortunately the muffin we had decided to have with the coffee failed to inspire. Never mind, we were heading to the shops in Phalaborwa so if needed we could grab a bite there.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I'd been told there was a Hyena den just outside Letaba so we stopped to look. It was obvious where the den was because of the footprints but there was no signs of life, they had probably retreated inside the culvert to get out of the very hot sun. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Bateleur landed in a nearby tree</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49006498058/in/dateposted-public/" title="Bateleur"><img alt="Bateleur" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49006498058_dbb875cb39_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and after snapping that there was once again absolutely no sign of life for virtually the rest of our journey. Just mile after mile of leafless shrubbery on the way to Phalaborwa although the scenery heading further north to Shimuwini was a vast improvement and we started to see game alongside the river that still had water in it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The gravel road to Shimuwini is restricted to residents only, all 11kms on the direct route as well as having access to the loop road off it too. It too was depressingly empty, it was still hot though.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I was becoming a bit disillusioned when suddenly we arrived in camp and my spirits lifted.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">An oasis of stunning beauty .</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007027081/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007027081_30ed878921_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Just 15 chalets, all overlooking the lake.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007027976/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007027976_4c1ac5e62c_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Over in the corner a bird hide raised up on stilts but with decent views back down the lake.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The accommodation was without doubt the best we'd had so far, We had two bedrooms each with two single beds, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49006485618/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49006485618_4362da74b0_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">a bathroom </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007234677/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007234677_c5848d77c7_c.jpg" width="598" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and an outdoor kitchen diner which was well covered.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Yours truly was soon hurriedly performing the most important task.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007235062/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007235062_ee423f2d47_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get those beers in the cooler a.s.a.p!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I had fallen in love with Shimuwini already, I decided I would be happy just staying local, or at least so I thought! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">On checking in I'd asked what wildlife I might see in camp. Once again the answer had comeback 'None".</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Strange then there was a huge pile of Elephant dung on the lawn near to the front of the chalet. I wondered how that might have got there!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">As were were unloading the car, two antelope wandered along in front of the fence.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49006487408/in/dateposted-public/" title="Nyala female"><img alt="Nyala female" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49006487408_0d3a039124_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">a first too, my first ever Nyala.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007234437/in/dateposted-public/" title="Nyala male"><img alt="Nyala male" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007234437_703f8881f8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">If every day brings something special I'm more than happy so that was my spirits lifted again.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">I investigated the bird hide looking over the Hippos lounging in what was quite deep water.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49006493273/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hippos"><img alt="Hippos" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49006493273_99516ec3b8_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">and despite my intentions not to, I went out in the car to investigate the loop road approaching camp. By now it was getting a bit cooler and from the loop you had decent views over the river bed. There was plenty of game out there, even a small herd of elephant that were heading towards our camp.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Claire had remained in camp but when she saw them coming she popped down to the hide to get the shot.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007234562/in/dateposted-public/" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007234562_da7f366804_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">whilst I came back empty handed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Was I bothered? Of course not. I was in paradise!</span><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131256186@N04/49007239142/in/dateposted-public/" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" title="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp"><img alt="Shimuwini Bushveld Camp" height="600" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49007239142_b2d54a1a32_c.jpg" width="800" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Can there be anything better than a cold beer and a Braii in a place like this?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Tell me if you know what could possibly be better!!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">TBC</span></div>
Dave Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16942744499680062896noreply@blogger.com0