Wednesday 23 October 2019

South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 All the way to Berg-en-Dal

There are many ways of getting to South Africa, several options of how to get to Kruger when you get there including self drive or a flight to Skukuza  Living in North wales it's easier to fly from Manchester than to drive to the southern airports near London. Qatar and Emirates are the obvious options but the journey is two legged and means diverting via the Middle East for a short stop over ( if you book the right flights!) before continuing south to Johannesberg.
We chose Qatar  as they were a) cheaper b) I actually prefer their planes as a window seat enables you to rest your head against the cabin wall. Emirates huge A380 doesn't make that possible and we, as "economy" passengers, have to try and make the journey as comfortable as possible.
Some can afford "business class" but the added luxuries come at a price which I'm not prepared to pay. The difference in cost for the two of us is more than the cost of the the next 4 weeks so a bit of suffering on the journey offers a huge payback. The fact the flight is split in to two sections I quite like as it does give a break and an opportunity to stretch your legs ( and be prepared for a long walk to the next departure gate too). Join the Qatar Airways privilege  club and you can spend your airmiles in their duty free shop getting a 30% discount in the process. 
We both managed a decent number of hours sleep during the flights, the onboard staff are very helpful and friendly, drinks are available freely on request and my only complaint would be the "food".
I don't understand why they bother , the packaging is wasteful and awkward but I suppose it passes some time trying to deal with it. The food within was largely disgusting!
Qatar Airways cuisine
I guess if you are hungry enough you can eat it but personally I'd rather they just gave you a sandwich which would be a cost saving and more acceptable than the gloop which is supposedly scrambled egg in this meal box.
Qatar Airways cuisine
Yes, I usually have a red wine with my breakfast when it's served in the middle of the night!
Anyway, flights and transfers were bang on time or early. Landing in Johannesberg you will be accosted by a porter, I read that they are worth using and I have to agree. The terminal building is pretty big and you can easily get lost on a first visit. For 50 rand we were guided to the ATM that charges the least for withdrawals and then on to our car rental company office, Bidvest. When you are concerned about the camp gate closing time deadlines any time savings along the way are wholly welcome.
I had asked for advice on which car to choose and settled for a Toyota Avanza rather than an SUV or  4x4. I was assured you didn't need the latter options in KNP and with hindsight I would largely agree although some of the corrugated gravel roads were a bit uncomfortable. The Avanza has the huge advantage in that the rear passenger windows fully open to make life much easier from a photographic point of view. They also have plenty of luggage storage space, more than most options unless you go to the very largest vehicles on offer.
I do my bookings through Rentalcars.com because they allow a free cancellation almost up to the day you are due to hire. They also compare the market. My investigations proved that they actually quote a cheaper price than booking directly online with the rental agency too. That I don't understand!
However, my booking for an Avanza dropped in price by well over a £100 as we neared our departure date so I simply booked the cheaper price, made sure it was confirmed than cancelled the original one. One word of warning though, all these car rental companies advertise as "model x or similar"
We didn't get an Avanza, we got a 7 seater Suzuki Ertiga instead. Almost new it was in pristine condition so no need to do any further checking other than to make sure there was a spare wheel. For KNP I think that is essential.
Suzuki Ertiga
The one thing I didn't think to check, and you wouldn't would you, was the screen wash bottle didn't have a leak in it. In the dry weather we had it wasn't a problem but would have been had we had muck splashing on the windscreen. The other thing about being in the park is that repair options are going to be limited and even swapping hire cars might prove problematic although with hindsight it is probably easier than you think. There are rental offices at Skukuza and Phalaborwa and perhaps others I'm unaware of too.
Anyway, the Suzuki proved OK to drive and surprisingly economical on fuel although a little unsteady in cross winds on the toll roads.
For those who are unsure about driving in South Africa all I can say is it's very easy even if you are not used to driving on the left side of the road. Heading to Malelane to enter KNP in the south is straightforward and mostly dual carriage way. You need to prepare for unexpected hold ups of course, one that we managed to avoid was a spot where they were due to start explosive blasting which could apparently last 30 minutes. We saw several police cars and speed checks along the way so pay heed to the local speed limits and all will be well. Our hire car included a toll road tag so we didn't pay going through ...and for that matter haven't yet either but as they don't take plastic from non SA issuing banks it avoided the need for cash. Just in case though I had withdrawn 4000R to cover eventualities such as there might be.In the end cash was hardly required other than I always tip in cash to make sure the service provider gets the money and not their employer.
Anyway, leaving the airport within 2.5 hours we were on our way before noon and arrived in Malelane at around 4.30pm. Just enough spare time to nip in to a supermarket and pick up a couple of essentials to see us through the first 24 hours. Aware that there were reports of security issues about leaving valuables on show in the car I remained in the vehicle while Claire did the shopping. The Suzuki was pretty basic and didn't include any cover for the rear space where cases are kept. Anyway, while waiting and guarding the gear I took a snap of my first bird species of the trip, a Common Mynah Bird which proved not so common as I only saw one at one other place. I had ambitions of a hefty count of bird species to help hit may target  500 for the year so the sooner I started the better!
Common Mynah
Checking in at the park gate was squick and easy, as was the check in at Berg-en-Dal camp.
The excitement of actually driving inside the park is amazing when you first arrive. Almost immediately there is wildlife to see. I had pre determined three bird species I wanted to see and couldn't believe my luck to be looking at a group of three Southern Ground Hornbills already.
Southern Ground Hornbill
Apologising to Claire for stopping to dig out the big lens to take some snaps, we had after all been on the road from home for about 32 hours by now and I assumed she had other priorities, I hurriedly took a few more shots "just in case" . I was glad I did because I never got a better view and only had four sightings in total during the month in the park. Claire was happy to let me stay longer but I pushed on to camp. We both wanted to stop when we saw a group of five Rhino though! 
Five!
I had never seen a White Rhinoceros before, never mind a group of five, three of which are in the shot below.
Rhino
They ask you not to report the spot for Rhino sightings for fear that it will aid poachers. It is however common knowledge where best to look for them and poachers are not stupid. The south of the park is the best place. I was over the moon already.
The accommodation I'd booked was the best they have for a two bedroomed unit, a BA3U bungalow.
We were pleasantly surprised.
Berg-en-Dal BA3U
We'd read many complaints about the accommodation through out the park's camps but if this was the standard we would manage very nicely.
There were three single beds, two were pushed together to form a large double
Berg-en-Dal BA3U
There is an open plan design that includes a kitchen area and breakfast bar.
Berg-en-Dal BA3U
with a toilet and shower room leading off the main accommodation room.
Berg-en-Dal BA3U
Everything was spotlessly clean, even if slightly tired in one tor two places such as the electric hobs looking well used but we were delighted. I would be happy if all the rooms we had booked would turn out so well.
The view from the perimeter fence was not exactly wonderful but we saw a passing Bushbuck on our first morning, and better still, glimpses of a passing Civet ( but no photos unfortunately) whilst having a pre dinorial beer sat on out patio.
Berg-en-Dal BA3U
We ate in the restaurant and both enjoyed the meal we chose. Nothing particularly memorable but it filled the need nicely. We didn't want to cook our selves on our first night, there was plenty of opportunity for that later, but had we wanted to the shop offered enough choice to have put together a decent meal on the "Braii". Our unit was well equipped, a fridge freezer, microwave, electric kettle and all the utensils were probably there although we didn't actually check. The only point worth noting was that in poor weather the seating area outside was not under cover and that breakfast bar the only choice. Likewise, if it's wet or very windy a B-B-Q might not be an option so you have to consider that you only have two hobs and a microwave at your disposal.
Or the restaurant of course!
No, so far so good. Tomorrow was the first big day and we were both looking forward to it immensely.
T.B.C.

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