It was back on the road again today!
An ambitious plan to try and get both Leopard and Cheetah...well you can live in hope! The S145 and S125 looked good prospects for the Leopard.The S36 for the Cheetah.
Breakfast at Toshkwane too!
A nice plan but it needed an early start and Claire was up for it.
We hadn't left Talamati very long before we came across a parked OSV. It must have come from one of the three private lodges in the nearby concession.
What were they looking at?
Ah! A lion!
Not the best of views but it was closer than any others we'd seen. I could hear the radio on the OSV, he was calling in his mates and before long two more rolled up, both packed with what sounded like American tourists.
I guess one of the advantages of an OSV is that they get to hear where things are happening. There are phone apps too but the trouble is there's no phone signal in much of the park which to be honest is a good thing in my opinion! News gets around fast enough as it is.
The downside of being on an OSV is that you could well find yourself sitting on the wrong side for a particular sighting although because the rows of seats are progressively higher those at the back can see over those in the rows in front. I'm assuming the driver tries to park in such a manner that everyone looks straight at the subject and the result is the vehicle parks across the road making getting past more difficult.
I was blocked in, more so when the first OSV left.
As I was within speaking distance with the driver of the vehicle blocking me I as was able to ask him, politely of course , if he could let me out. He did so without acknowledgement.
20m down the road I spotted there was a better view. If the Lion raised it's head we could actually see his face!
He did briefly before appearing to go back to sleep. I'd got a better picture though.
I reversed back and informed the driver of the OSV that had moved that there was a good picture opportunity if he moved. Once again, no acknowledgement but the kind of look that tells you you don't know what you are talking about. Suit himself I thought and left.
To be honest that was the only incidence of that sort of behaviour I experienced from an OSV. Most were very thoughtful and considerate of others.
Our route continued, along the S125 then down the tar H1-3. Nothing of note to add to our sightings unfortunately. Tshkwane Picnic Site here we come.
We got to the left turn to the Orpen Loop road and it was still pretty early. Should we take a look?
We'd seen nothing the last time but our neighbours at Lower Sabie had had a pair of Lions walking alongside their vehicle for an age. We'd try again!
We'd only gone a few hundred metres when I spotted three heads raised in the long grass.
Hyena and bloodied ones too! They were on a kill but we couldn't see it.
They were quite distant and largely hidden so we moved off again. Half way around the loop an OSV was coming the opposite direction. I flagged him down and told him about the Hyenas. Both he and all the passengers were delighted about the news, they had obviously had a poor trip so far. They were all appreciative and in return tipped me off that they'd seen nothing on the rest of the loop.
That was the only tip I received from an OSV but I did flag a few down during the course of our trips to pass on my news!!
It hadn't been the best of mornings but a Lion and a Hyena is actually pretty good.
I think one of the misconceptions of a self drive in KNP is that you will be falling over sightings. It much depends where you are and what time of day...and no doubt year too!
Anyway, we were now more concerned about breakfast and my much anticipated treat!!
Remember I'd eyed up someone else's meal on our first visit.
Oh yes, I was having one of those.
Scrambled egg, bacon and cheese in a toasted roll. I added some Tabasco sauce to gee it up a tad too!
Absolutely delicious and a snip at 38 rand. Substantial enough to keep anyone going all day. In my opinion this is the best breakfast stop in the whole of KNP, if you are ever passing give it a try. You might even get some decent sightings there too.
Now well fed we decided to head on towards Skukuza on the tar road... yes there was another football result I was dying to know!
We diverted off the tar for a short loop and we were rewarded in buckets!
A new bird for the trip, a Golden-breasted Bunting
and some cracking views of a flock of White-crested Helmetshrike.
For once they stayed put long enough for a couple of shots.
back on the tar and further down the road towards Skukuza we spotted the Vulture I'd missed until I later looked at a photograph I'd taken.
White-headed Vulture
Things were getting better by the minute!
We investigated a waterhole turn off which I seem to remember was unmarked.
A car was already on the scene. A Bateleur on its kill.
It's an impressive bird, one of the most striking raptors you will ever get to see.
The victim, a Scrub Hare. That's one race it won't win.
On to the waterhole to find it totally dry but wait.... a couple of birds are seeking out insects in the dried up mud.
Senegal plover, one of the best birds I'd see on the whole trip. Something of a rarity in KNP it seems. More of a rarity in Senegal perhaps. In all my many trips to The Gambia I'd never seen one before.
It was turning in to quite a day.
A cold drink and a quick wifi link and we were out of Skukuza leaving the madding crowds behind once more.
A couple of minutes up the road and it was hit the brake time again.
African Hoopoe, too close to the edge of the road making me park in the middle of the tar road. I'd have to be quick.
The next car along spooked it but I'd got a shot, another addition for my list too.
Next up was the S83 loop. My mind was elsewhere when suddenly there at the side of the road..a Leopard. I instinctively hit the brakes and skidded to a halt in just a few metres. The Leopard was a mere 5m away. It snarled at us and slunk behind a bush. I reversed back a bit and the Leopard emerged to cross the road. Unfortunately there was no way I'd get a shot through the windscreen so I leant out of the window just in time to see it about to enter the woodland.
Damn, damn, damn.
If only I'd been more alert I might have seen it earlier. I certainly wasn't going fast so at least I had stopped before I was past it but I felt I had blown what would be the best sighting we'd get.
That grass obscuring it's face and then just shots of it vanishing in to the bush.
I admit it took a little shine off my day!!
Anyway, next up we had the S36, well known for Cheetah sightings. Well known but not by us.
Never mind we had some compensation and enough to cheer me up.
No, not the Vervet Monkey.
Nor the Zebra.
Not even the beautiful Waterbuck.
No , what really delighted me was to get some cracking views of the Red-crested Kohraan.
It was having a grooming session and didn't do the usual and walk away.
If you look carefully you can actually see the red crest on that one!
That was a bit special for me.as it's normally only seen in courtship routines.
The day wasn't over yet though.
We were running slightly late, nothing to worry about so still time to stop for some green Wood Hoopoe.
and had to stop for a Giraffe block
Such an elegant creature aren't they?
We'd seen just about everything today, four of the big five again and in fact our last stop was to watch an Elephant destroy yet another tree.
What a magical day it had been even with the disappointment of my Leopard encounter. I might not have got the shot but to see and even hear the Leopard snarl at us was a memory I'll have implanted for ever.
We were on the move again tomorrow. Talamati Bushveld Camp had been pretty good to us and was definitely the best accommodation we'd had so far.
One last Braii then.
and guess who came to dinner to say goodbye!
No doubt hoping for a more generous host next time.
It's not easy resisting the temptation to offer them food I have to admit.
TBC
An ambitious plan to try and get both Leopard and Cheetah...well you can live in hope! The S145 and S125 looked good prospects for the Leopard.The S36 for the Cheetah.
Breakfast at Toshkwane too!
A nice plan but it needed an early start and Claire was up for it.
We hadn't left Talamati very long before we came across a parked OSV. It must have come from one of the three private lodges in the nearby concession.
What were they looking at?
Ah! A lion!
Not the best of views but it was closer than any others we'd seen. I could hear the radio on the OSV, he was calling in his mates and before long two more rolled up, both packed with what sounded like American tourists.
I guess one of the advantages of an OSV is that they get to hear where things are happening. There are phone apps too but the trouble is there's no phone signal in much of the park which to be honest is a good thing in my opinion! News gets around fast enough as it is.
The downside of being on an OSV is that you could well find yourself sitting on the wrong side for a particular sighting although because the rows of seats are progressively higher those at the back can see over those in the rows in front. I'm assuming the driver tries to park in such a manner that everyone looks straight at the subject and the result is the vehicle parks across the road making getting past more difficult.
I was blocked in, more so when the first OSV left.
As I was within speaking distance with the driver of the vehicle blocking me I as was able to ask him, politely of course , if he could let me out. He did so without acknowledgement.
20m down the road I spotted there was a better view. If the Lion raised it's head we could actually see his face!
He did briefly before appearing to go back to sleep. I'd got a better picture though.
I reversed back and informed the driver of the OSV that had moved that there was a good picture opportunity if he moved. Once again, no acknowledgement but the kind of look that tells you you don't know what you are talking about. Suit himself I thought and left.
To be honest that was the only incidence of that sort of behaviour I experienced from an OSV. Most were very thoughtful and considerate of others.
Our route continued, along the S125 then down the tar H1-3. Nothing of note to add to our sightings unfortunately. Tshkwane Picnic Site here we come.
We got to the left turn to the Orpen Loop road and it was still pretty early. Should we take a look?
We'd seen nothing the last time but our neighbours at Lower Sabie had had a pair of Lions walking alongside their vehicle for an age. We'd try again!
We'd only gone a few hundred metres when I spotted three heads raised in the long grass.
Hyena and bloodied ones too! They were on a kill but we couldn't see it.
They were quite distant and largely hidden so we moved off again. Half way around the loop an OSV was coming the opposite direction. I flagged him down and told him about the Hyenas. Both he and all the passengers were delighted about the news, they had obviously had a poor trip so far. They were all appreciative and in return tipped me off that they'd seen nothing on the rest of the loop.
That was the only tip I received from an OSV but I did flag a few down during the course of our trips to pass on my news!!
It hadn't been the best of mornings but a Lion and a Hyena is actually pretty good.
I think one of the misconceptions of a self drive in KNP is that you will be falling over sightings. It much depends where you are and what time of day...and no doubt year too!
Anyway, we were now more concerned about breakfast and my much anticipated treat!!
Remember I'd eyed up someone else's meal on our first visit.
Oh yes, I was having one of those.
Scrambled egg, bacon and cheese in a toasted roll. I added some Tabasco sauce to gee it up a tad too!
Absolutely delicious and a snip at 38 rand. Substantial enough to keep anyone going all day. In my opinion this is the best breakfast stop in the whole of KNP, if you are ever passing give it a try. You might even get some decent sightings there too.
Now well fed we decided to head on towards Skukuza on the tar road... yes there was another football result I was dying to know!
We diverted off the tar for a short loop and we were rewarded in buckets!
A new bird for the trip, a Golden-breasted Bunting
and some cracking views of a flock of White-crested Helmetshrike.
For once they stayed put long enough for a couple of shots.
back on the tar and further down the road towards Skukuza we spotted the Vulture I'd missed until I later looked at a photograph I'd taken.
White-headed Vulture
Things were getting better by the minute!
We investigated a waterhole turn off which I seem to remember was unmarked.
A car was already on the scene. A Bateleur on its kill.
It's an impressive bird, one of the most striking raptors you will ever get to see.
The victim, a Scrub Hare. That's one race it won't win.
On to the waterhole to find it totally dry but wait.... a couple of birds are seeking out insects in the dried up mud.
Senegal plover, one of the best birds I'd see on the whole trip. Something of a rarity in KNP it seems. More of a rarity in Senegal perhaps. In all my many trips to The Gambia I'd never seen one before.
It was turning in to quite a day.
A cold drink and a quick wifi link and we were out of Skukuza leaving the madding crowds behind once more.
A couple of minutes up the road and it was hit the brake time again.
African Hoopoe, too close to the edge of the road making me park in the middle of the tar road. I'd have to be quick.
The next car along spooked it but I'd got a shot, another addition for my list too.
Next up was the S83 loop. My mind was elsewhere when suddenly there at the side of the road..a Leopard. I instinctively hit the brakes and skidded to a halt in just a few metres. The Leopard was a mere 5m away. It snarled at us and slunk behind a bush. I reversed back a bit and the Leopard emerged to cross the road. Unfortunately there was no way I'd get a shot through the windscreen so I leant out of the window just in time to see it about to enter the woodland.
Damn, damn, damn.
If only I'd been more alert I might have seen it earlier. I certainly wasn't going fast so at least I had stopped before I was past it but I felt I had blown what would be the best sighting we'd get.
That grass obscuring it's face and then just shots of it vanishing in to the bush.
I admit it took a little shine off my day!!
Anyway, next up we had the S36, well known for Cheetah sightings. Well known but not by us.
Never mind we had some compensation and enough to cheer me up.
No, not the Vervet Monkey.
Nor the Zebra.
Not even the beautiful Waterbuck.
No , what really delighted me was to get some cracking views of the Red-crested Kohraan.
It was having a grooming session and didn't do the usual and walk away.
If you look carefully you can actually see the red crest on that one!
That was a bit special for me.as it's normally only seen in courtship routines.
The day wasn't over yet though.
We were running slightly late, nothing to worry about so still time to stop for some green Wood Hoopoe.
and had to stop for a Giraffe block
Such an elegant creature aren't they?
We'd seen just about everything today, four of the big five again and in fact our last stop was to watch an Elephant destroy yet another tree.
What a magical day it had been even with the disappointment of my Leopard encounter. I might not have got the shot but to see and even hear the Leopard snarl at us was a memory I'll have implanted for ever.
We were on the move again tomorrow. Talamati Bushveld Camp had been pretty good to us and was definitely the best accommodation we'd had so far.
One last Braii then.
and guess who came to dinner to say goodbye!
No doubt hoping for a more generous host next time.
It's not easy resisting the temptation to offer them food I have to admit.
TBC
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