Friday 15 November 2019

South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Olifants to Skukuza.

Our overnight stop at Olifants had been fine, the lack of a kitchen not a problem for one night but the chalet was clean, tidy and functional. We had swopped three nights at Punda Maria in a Safari Tent for one on Olifants and two in Skukuza at a cost of only the equivalent of £10 so no major loss there. We'd wait to see what we were given at Skukuza but whatever it was to be it was too late to change our minds now! The good news I was to get another breakfast at Tshokwane, an opportunity to see a part of the park as yet unvisited, the south west corner, another opportunity to stop at Biyamiti Weir and a Wifi connection. The downside was my perception that Skukuza was Rest Camp hell, overcrowded and noisy. Ah well, the good outweighed the bad, it was only for 2 nights after all.
We set off from Olifants fairly early. The Vervet Monkeys were already forming raiding parties so I was careful about what I was putting in the car and leaving doors open too.
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It was a nice drive southwards, we noticed that it was apparent there was more greenery evident , fresh shoots were appearing as a result of the recent rain, even though it had probably been fairly brief.
Swainson's Spurfowl
Somewhere north of Satara we came across a mini Lion jam. A solitary male fast asleep wasn't worth hanging around for in our opinion. Breakfast was calling!

Lion
I was thrilled at the prospect of revisiting the south but as we drove on I was more than aware that our  journey through the park was coming to an end.
I realised that there wouldn't be many more chances for seeing some species that had been so common I had been ignoring them!
Greater Kudu female
What if I hadn't actually got a decent shot already?
Wildebeest
I decided to grab a few shots as we travelled and stopped for things I wouldn't have done in previous days.
Zebra
I guess if there was one thing I was disappointed in,  from a photographic point of view anyway, it was the lack of action shots I had taken.
Zebra
I have only myself to blame. If you hang around in one place long enough your chances increase. Maybe I'd spent too much time driving ? Maybe I should have spent more time at the waterholes?
There again, most waterholes were dry anyway. Anyway, it's food for thought if I return.
Having breakfasted in fine style, we continued on to Skukuza and once again were able to check in slightly early.
Skukuza Rest Camp
Our accommodation was functional! 
Skukuza Rest Camp
We had an outdoor kitchen area, but we'd already decided we would probably eat in the Cattle Baron Restaurant as it was highly praised by most who posted reports. As luck would have it we were almost next to the shop/restaurant complex so an easy walk of just a couple of minutes. The car park was jammed full as per usual but that we'd expected. Might be quieter later, and anyway we'd be going out again soon.
Our room itself was bit cramped
Skukuza Rest Camp
They squeeze three single beds in to a tiny space.
Skukuza Rest Camp
I'm not sure why, there can't be that many threesomes travelling together can there?
Anyway, although the chalet/rondel, call it what you may, was probably the scruffiest we stayed in, the kitchen area in particularly looked well worn, everything was still spotlessly clean.
We had a quick wander to check out our local surrounds and we were most impressed with the Riverview chalets, mind you when I looked at the prices later they were more expensive than a stay in a Bushveld camp  which I would prefer anyway. We checked out the Cattle Baron menu which looked pretty good, had a quick update on the wifi and then decided to go out and explore a little. 
Lake Panic and the bird hide is pretty close by so that's where we headed.
It was surprisingly full, well surprisingly to me anyway, standing room only for much of the time although we had got a seat straight away. The minute I got up to see what could be viewed from the far end of the hide someone had moved in to my seat so I had to move too!
In the afternoon, the sun is in the wrong direction for decent photography. 
African darter
There were a few things about,we even had a Crocodile right in front of us.
Nile Crocodile
There was enough to keep us watching for around 45 minutes I'd think. It was certainly cooler in the hide than it was in the car so it seemed the right choice but we didn't see too much that we hadn't already. Instead of driving on we returned to Skukuza, we'd be driving all day tomorrow.I had a plan!
By the time we got back to camp it had transformed! The car parks were virtually empty. Hardly a soul about. It was actually very nice!!!
I went and spent an hour or so catching up with the news on the internet. Our table was booked for dinner. All was good.
At the appointed hour we wandered the short distance to the restaurant to find it buzzing! It's only 40 or 50m away but from our chalet there was no disturbance whatsoever. It turned out our table was booked inside, they won't let you pre-book tables on the outside veranda, so we decided to wait until one became vacant which it did within a couple of minutes. There was a nice atmosphere in the packed eating area, everyone enjoying dinner under the stars. Despite the constant flow of new diners arriving no-one seemed to be waiting very long to be seated. We didn't wait long for our order to be taken either, drink orders were served almost instantly.
The meal was certainly more than adequate. Straight forward menu, well prepared and the service fantastic.
Full marks to the staff at Cattle Baron, I can see why so many people rate it so highly. We would certainly be eating there again the next evening.
Over dinner we finished our plan for the following day. Claire was up for it too, we'd leave at the crack of dawn, we'd check out an area to the west of us before heading to Biyamiti Weir, after there, and depending what was about, we'd follow some of the route we'd taken on our very first day. That had probably been the singularly best day for sighting we'd had yet. No cats perhaps but stunning views of Hyena, Rhino, Klipspringer, and best of all Wild Dog.
If I could just see some more of the Wild Dogs I'd be more than happy.
All would be revealed tomorrow!!
TBC






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