Wednesday 6 November 2019

South Africa Kruger NP Sept/Oct 2019 Mopani and the Tropic of Capricorn

Mopani couldn't have been a better choice to follow up on Shimuwini, it was probably our favourite "main" camp. It's perfectly placed for exploring the surrounding area and the layout is such that it has a very private feel too. I had booked us in to one of the best view chalets in the camp and although it was just along from the shop and restaurant which was very convenient it was still very quiet indeed.
This was the view from our patio/covered dining area.
Mopani Rest Camp
The kitchen had everything you might need.
Mopani Rest Camp
Well, not quite but I'll tell you about that later!
There was one main bedroom
Mopani Rest Camp
and a rather tiny one with a bunk bed in it.
Mopani Rest Camp
That soon became a storage room, the beds storage perfect for my electrical gear!
Mopani Rest Camp
The bathroom was adequate, basically we were very happy!
Mopani Rest Camp
The camp overlooks Pioneer Dam, there is plenty going on down there but you need a pair of binoculars to take advantage really.
What I really liked was that there is a decent footpath that takes you down along part of the lake below.
First thing in the morning on our first day I was down there to see what I could find and it was the most productive camp of all in terms of birds.
Southern Masked Weaver
Southern Masked Weaver
Little Bee-eater
Little Bee-eater
White-browed Scrub Robin
White-browed Scrub Robin
Marabou Stork
Marabou Stork
Black-bellied Starling
Black-bellied Starling
I was flying!
It was the only camp were I could get really close to the water's edge and be at a decent level even if it meant having an electric fence in front of me.
Wood Sandpiper
Up around our chalet we did have the usual early morning alarm call of the Natal Spurfowl
Natal Spurfowl
along with the more tuneful, well in comparison anyway, Chinspot Batis
Chinspot Batis
We had 4 nights booked here and I knew I was going to be happy. Our first day started dull and overcast, slightly chilly in the wind off the dam in fact but as far as I was concerned it was a bonus. When it's dull the animals stay out longer!
Off we went again, first stop check out the small lake in front of the Shipandani Hide.
Hippos
The Hippo were closer but didn't look likely to provide much in the way of action shots.
We headed back to the H1-6 tar. The next sighting brought traffic to a standstill.
Well all two of us. We both parked across the road to make sure that this little chap made it to the other side.
Chameleon
This was all action but at a very slow pace. If you have never seen a Chameleon move they are quite weird. Every stride is hesitant but deliberate.
You can try this link to see for yourselves. 
Chameleon on the move
They are probably more common than you realise, we only saw the one, but of course they are well camouflaged. This one had the sense to keep his bush colours on whilst crossing the road rather than blending in with the tar!
Once the Chameleon was safely across the road we moved on only to stop again not too further along to offer similar protection!
 Leopard Tortoise
We turned off the road to explore again a similar path to the one the day before. The good thing about Mopani Camp is there are quite a few waterholes within a relatively short distance. During drought conditions they are of course well populated!
The Nshawu No 2 was to become a firm favourite. 
We saw our only Reedbuck there.
Southern Reedbuck
There was always something to photograph.
Red-billed Oxpecker Impala
There were a few Ostrich in the area too, not that common in KNP from our experience.
Ostrich
No, the special sighting will be revealed later in my report so you'll have to stay tuned!!!
We, for the time being, headed north then took the S143, also known as the Tropic of Capricorn Rd..for obvious reasons. It was however also a reminder that our journey through KNP had taken us further south from the Equator than we had ever travelled before.
The weather was starting to get brighter, and with it deteriorating conditions for photography which was a shame because once again heat haze proved problematic for my third and last sighting of Secretary Bird.
Secretary Bird 2
In truth I guess the grass was an equally big problem!
7M3A6205
You can see how after it has rained the whole scene would change. Views through the Mopani bush impossible, the grass green and dense.
7M3A6207
Maybe by good fortune we had chosen the right time to visit?
Maybe!
The S143 was particularly good for birds that day too.
Kittliz's Plover
A family of 3 Kittlitz's Plover the only ones I have ever seen I think.
Kittliz's Plover
A bush full of Red-head Finch
Red-headed Finch
Quite a few Namaqua Dove too.
Namaqua Dove
and lots of Sparrow-Lark that favour these dry arid conditions it seems.
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-weaver
We stopped off for the obligatory Tropic of Capricorn marker shots before returning to camp. I caught up with some post processing, but of course couldn't resist going out again for the evening session!
A stop at the Shipandani hide proved it's not good at this time of day, neither did it look too promising as an overnight stop in the hide either. It's one of two in the park that you can book and they don't come cheap either. personally I wouldn't bother.
Anyway, it's only 5 minutes up the road to Bowkerskop waterhole so perfect to catch the last of the sun, and it turned out that way too.
There were lots of Elephants at the waterhole.
Forming the circle
They jealously guard it too whilst they are there, a juvenile seems to have the responsibility of chasing all other species away.
Even a Kori Bustard was seen as a threat to supplies and wasn't allowed near.
Forming the circle
It's amusing to watch the youngsters as they approach, they get really excited and break in to a run.7M3A6350
They are made welcome of course and protected by the herd.
Thirsty Elephant
Everything else has to wait until they have had their fill and left.
The evening light was glorious though.
Tsessebe
It was a pleasure to sit and watch the comings and goings.
Black-backed Jackal
The Kori Bustard came over to investigate the few watching cars.
Kori Bustard
With the gates to camp due to shut soon I had to leave, it's amazing how quickly the light vanishes.
Mopani Rest Camp
From the waterhole in full light I arrived back at our chalet about 15 minutes later just in time to see the sun disappear for the day.
time for a beer of course, and light the Braii!i
Our day wasn't quite over yet though.
To our delight we had a visitor!
Genet
Another Genet! 
At first it stayed a bit distant..all of 10m perhaps but when I retreated from the Braii to the table to eat, the Genet got bolder.
Genet
Once again I didn't use flash but instead lay on the ground and using something for support set my camera to ISO1600 and a shutter speed of 1/6th sec. The f2.8 lens allows more light in and although there must have been a certain amount of camera shake from an inebriated photographer, they came out OK !
No, Mopani was OK and I soon got over leaving Shimuwini!
TBC.

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